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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Ciff Mask and Pete, 7/00
Page Views: 4,468 total, 35/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 3, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

The guidebook rates this 5.2, but the top moves might be more like 5.4.

Steep slab with big holds until 5/6th of the way up where the crux and one or two climbing moves await.
Great first lead for the beginner that wants practice clipping bolts and equalizing bolts for an anchor.

Good one to put the parents / relatives on.

Location

On right wall of left facing obivous corner you can see from parking lot.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchor
Nick Merrill
  5.5
Nick Merrill  
  5.5
Great first lead route. It was very nice to ease into lead without having to worry much about falling.

The difficulty in accessing the anchors at the top is what makes me rate this more difficult than most people. Oct 23, 2017
Good first lead Aug 20, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
An awesome climb! Beautiful situation. It's definitely on my list of "Twenty-five Rumney Classics." It's listed in Ward Smith's 2009 guidebook as a 5.2, but it is a bit harder than that. A Week with Pete is THE route to do with gung-ho beginners. Feb 26, 2014
This was my first lead, I've always wanted to trail rope and free solo this bad boy Nov 13, 2013
Kari Post
Keene, NH
  5.3
Kari Post   Keene, NH
  5.3
Good first route for those new to climbing or new to climbing outdoors, or for a first lead or for teaching someone to lead belay. This one can tend to get a little wet, but the area below can stay shady and cool on a hot day. The route thins out near the top some. When lowering, be careful not to fall into the chimney on the left or under the rock face into the cave on the right (a good tip to give a first time climber). This climb isn't particularly memorable, but it makes a nice easy warm up to other routes in the area. I suspect this route gets used a lot so be sure to check to check the hardware, particularly up top. Jul 6, 2013
Good to teach someone to lead belay if you're the leader, since the holds are juggy. Also a good first lead. May 18, 2013
J Meagher
  5.3
J Meagher  
  5.3
Really fun as a first route of the day, and exactly what you need to get into the climbing mindset while you're still half-asleep after leaving the house at 6:30. Great route, because the crack section at the top gives some character to the climb but is still very easy. The older, worn away quick-clips are still up there, but there are now also two new ones. Even these new ones are starting to show a slight groove, but they are still very useable. Oct 29, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
The quick clips on top of this are worn through. There was a biner on it today that I replaced with 2 screw links. I left them loose enough to just drop your rope into. I however wasnt able to clean the old quickies off. Jun 6, 2011
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i love this route! when ever i take beginers to rumney this is the route i basicly solo while i teach them how to lead belay... i say solo cuz you dont know if your going to get a catch when you look down and have to utter the phrase "oh junk! no dont do that!" Mar 13, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.3
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.3
Very easy great for beginners. So much fun though! Mar 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.3
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.3
great first lead, just enjoy it

also FA was done by Cliff Mask 7/00 Nov 20, 2008