Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Art Mooney
Page Views: 6,097 total · 41/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

169 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


The first (and steepest) climb you encounter at the height of the climbers trail. In just 60 feet of climbing, Espresso has easy slab climbing, a series of tricky moves to surmount a bulge, and a fun line of juggy moves right before you encounter a brief, but crimpy crux.

The bolts are well-placed, the climbing is fun, and the falls are clean and safe.


6 bolts and two cold-shuts for anchors


twellman   Cambridge
I think you can skip the crimpy crux, which is below the 2nd to last bolt, with a fun dyno. The hold to the left of the 2nd to last bolt is good, and it's a fun fall if it turns out not to be good enough when you are pumping out! Jul 13, 2009
Englewood, CO
tscupp   Englewood, CO
This is sort of a nit-picky question but I'm curious as to what is considered the true line at the start? I did one way pretty close to the bolt line (maybe a little left) and found it very hard - much harder than anything else on the climb and a second way that was right of the bolt line and used a little bit of the rock to the side making it much easier but more consistent with the rest of the climb.

Any thoughts?

This is a great 10+, so much fun blasting through those monster jugs from the midway point and above. Aug 9, 2010
hasan Adil
hasan Adil   portland,me
Got on it today and sent, great route. I feel if you veer right onto the block and then traverse left into the route around 2nd bolt then it is no where near 10d, more like 10a or 9+, and if its thats 10d then romancing the stone (10c) etc would be 11. The true line would be straight up from the first bolt up with some hard moves into steep juggy climbing to anchors. Sep 18, 2011
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Silly question, but does this route start at the very bottom of the rock, or are you supposed to hike up to the right and start on the ledge? Feb 8, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I usually start from below since my belayer and pack is down there and I prefer climbing over hiking. Feb 8, 2012
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I do not think the ledge was any part of the original start. The 1st time I led the route, I think I stuck a #4 cam into some big horizotnal down low. Was a low bolt added afterwards?
Juan Valdez and 100% Colombian start from the ledge. Does starting Expresso from the ledge involve a long traverse into the route from the right? Feb 8, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Thanks guys. Also, is it possible to access the anchors for this climb by climbing week with pete? Feb 16, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
it could be a bit sketchy... it would be safer to have a solid belayer and lead the route it self... grab draws if need be but mostly its big holds... Feb 16, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Thanks! Feb 16, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Finally got on this today. Hang dogged it at nearly every bolt. I used the ledge to clip the second bolt, then climbed back down to the slab, and climbed to the left of the bolts from there. Really pumpy for me, but every time I decided I needed to throw for what looked like a good hold, it was indeed good. Mar 31, 2012
Don't understand some of the comments... the first moves of the route were not at all hard for me and I don't see how traversing into the route would affect the grade. The crux is absolutely the move off the crimp before the second to last (?) bolt. Found a technical solution with a heel hook. Grade? Who cares!! 5.FUN!!! May 22, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
The start also feels stout for me, I climb the ramp, clip the first bolt, then move down/left and start the real climbing. I use one of the pockets as a flat edged sidepull, throw into the crack, then pop to a jug up and right, clip the second bolt, then finish straight up the line. If I skipped that section or found an easier way, the route would not feel 10d to me.

Quick clips are getting pretty worn as of 7/8/12. Jul 9, 2012
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Pretty much all dry today (10/16/16). Great route.
Felt .10d today. Felt .11a a year ago when it was moist and slick.
Quickies and biners at anchors are still fine and solid as of today.
Just wish the climb is longer! 3 star moves, but real climbing is rather short so I am giving it 2.5 stars Oct 11, 2015