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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 3,564 total, 32/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A cool 5.9 face climb.

Start to the right of the big oak tree. Start on low angle rock that might still be a litte dirty lichen but is nice to climb on. make your way to where the rock steepens and find a sequence through the crux face leading to an anchor.

This one doesnt go to the top of the cliff

Location

At the left end of the crag starting near the stair case to the meadows. climbs right of the big oak tree.

Protection

8 Bolts to anchor.
Nice and shady in the summer heat and much quieter section of wall than the right end of Parking Lot Wall. Great face climbing! 5.8+ Sep 18, 2017
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
Both 5-piece bolts for the top anchor were loose when I arrived at them today. I usually have an adjustable wrench in my pack, but I managed to leave it at home today. I hate to pass the buck on route maintenance, and feel kind of lame posting a "someone should take care of this" comment, but I'm not in a position to deal with it soon, and they should probably be torqued to spec in the near future. Aug 9, 2017
S. Neoh
  5.8+
S. Neoh  
  5.8+
Did you send either/both?
Conditions were close to perfect today unless you were in direct sun; too hot in that case. Oct 27, 2012
J Meagher
  5.9
J Meagher  
  5.9
Okay, thanks for all the advice! I think I'll go for curly and maybe mcmeadows this weekend as long as the weather holds up Oct 25, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
After the initial bouldery moves, B-B-Buttress is a great climb. Get on it! Men In White Suits isn't too bad either. Oct 25, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
As much as some people say it stinks! I like Your Anus 5.9 :) haha
all anus jokes aside...
really, a safe fun route that isn't super hard in the grade... Oct 24, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.8+
S. Neoh  
  5.8+
The opening moves on Couch P are very hard for me (being a shortie). Definitely stick-clip the 1st bolt. I also like W&P best of those I have listed. Actually, Hippos is a 5.9 so if you have led that, then you have gotten your 1st Rumney .9. Congrats.

One 5.9 that I like very much but might be quite intimidating and burly for one's first .9 is Left El Diego. At the same crag, Trigger Happy (also .9) is pretty good but the opening moves are somewhat insecure and the face climbing gets quite technical higher up.

Here are two .8+ routes which you should not miss doing; Junco and Metamorphosis. The latter is one of my fave at Rumney. Great cleaning and bolting job, Mark.

Edit to add: Men in White Suits was my 1st Rumney .9 BITD. Only an OK route, burly near the top; we did not have a lot of choices when it came to moderates 20 years ago. Oct 24, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Couch Potato can feel a little burly the first time you are on it, but there are lots of rests if you take the time to figure them out. Obi has a couple clips that you don't want to blow. Egg would be good if you don't mind crimping. War and Peace is probably my favorite quality wise of the ones S. Neoh listed. If it is at your current limit, and you are not so tall, maybe get somebody to pre-place the draws. Couch is my route, but I think Curly is nicer. Oct 24, 2012
J Meagher
  5.9
J Meagher  
  5.9
Okay, thanks. Is there any bad fall potential (from a beginner's viewpoint), or is it overhanging enough where falling feels safe?

I've also been considering couch potato at below the new wave, which would you reccomend? Oct 24, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.8+
S. Neoh  
  5.8+
I believe this and Hippos climb quite differently. The crux of this one is near the top so make sure you have reserve left in the tank before gunning for the anchors. Good luck.

Egg McMeadows, War and Peace, Yoda, and Obiwan Ryobi are all good 5.9 routes just in case you are wondering. All of which I feel are quite a bit harder than this route. Oct 22, 2012
J Meagher
  5.9
J Meagher  
  5.9
I'm looking for a route for a first 5.9 at Rumney, is this a good choice? I've done hippos on parade at the meadows, are the two similar, and is there any beta I should be aware of? Oct 22, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.8+
S. Neoh  
  5.8+
Perhaps we should have both Curly and Idiot's Deluxe as part of Parking Lot Wall. May 11, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
You're correct. It looks like this route was once located in The Parking Lot area. I'm sure an administrator will update the description, but in the time being check out this for reference. May 11, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
The location says left end of the crag near the stairs to the meadows... I assume that means the left end of the parking lot wall? May 11, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
 
Jcomeau   North Conway
 
This is super fun. GET ON THIS. Jun 6, 2011
jcullem  
A really nice addition to the cliff. Quality steep climbing once you get into the business.
Never desperate and at its grade, but makes you think a bit, particularly the last moves to the anchors. Generally does not get soaked like some of the neighboring routes, but the last part can be a bit wet. A must do for the 5.9 climber. Nov 22, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
This is route is fantastic, it is also nice because if it looks a little damp you can still climb it because the holds are that positive and there are a variety of other positive holds. Great route. Dec 2, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.8+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.8+
Such a fine line that doesn't seem to suffer from the meadows/parking lot wall climber-infestation. Nice and shadey on hot days too. Sep 17, 2008