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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 6,521 total, 51/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Start on high ground just right of the left facing chimney.

Climb easy ground to the top of the huge flake. Step over the chimney, climb the crux and make your way up to a narrow traverse ledge. Walk, crawl, or hand traverse left to where you can head directly up to the left of the anchors. The anchors are to the right, to be in the best rock, so you will have to reach over for them a bit. Extending a few of the draws will eliminate rope drag.

Location

Just right of left facing chimney on high ground.

Protection

8 Bolts to Anchors. A few long draws or slings will eliminate potential rope drag. Make sure you use your own draws on the anchor for TRing. The route is very popular, so the anchors would otherwise wear out quickly.
Kari Post
Keene, NH
 
Kari Post   Keene, NH
 
Traversing all the way to the left past the anchors and going up from there is reasonable for the route. The anchor placement is a bit weird (explained above) and is better for someone with longish arms in order to comfortably place gear. It is recommended to leave a directional in to the far right of the anchor (the last bolt before the anchor) since the route waggles a lot. Jul 6, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Extending the 4th, 6th, and 7th draws on this route will help reduce rope drag a LOT. May 20, 2013
Devin Kelly  
 
this was my first lead at rumney, and honestly it was a great start to a great day, really fun and interesting climb, will definitly be my first stop when i get back there in the fall Apr 26, 2013
Dan Felix  
 
Climbed it yesterday, the last bolt before the anchors is a spinner. I didn't have my nut tool with me while I was up there to try to tighten it... Considering the angle the rope has to take between the last bolt and the anchor it might be better for that bolt to be a glue-in. Nov 4, 2012
RobawGT
Worcester, MA
  5.6 PG13
RobawGT   Worcester, MA
  5.6 PG13
It is a little runout after the third bolt, easy climbing to the fourth bolt, but if you slipped it would hurt falling down that chimney you have to step over.

In addition, it was remarkably dry considering everything else had ice on it and it snowed the night before. Jan 29, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I love the traverse on this. Flows really good with a few crosses and a heal thrown in. Jun 6, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
Kevin I am curious where you think the PG-13 rating comes from?

Also after doing this climb and cleaning the draws off the bolts there is a really fun TR route that the line the rope takes when hanging down from the anchors. It is about 5.8 and get two stars.

Here is how it goes: We started climbing right on the edge of the huge flake to the left of the start of Glory Jean's and to the top of it, then made fun moves up on a few crimps and weird angled holds over the overlap (crux) and then continue up on fun climbing and meeting Glory Jean's at the last bolt of the traverse and finishing up that route.

If you do this please keep your quick draws on the anchors so we don't wear down the fixed gear on this heavily traveled route. Apr 29, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7
I was a bit freaked on the traverse. I'm tall so the last few feet moving left were tough as the wall kinda pushed me out a bit. But I climbed it and I must agree that it's not a boring, standard climb and deserves some stars. Added my 3. Aug 22, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Glory Jean's is a wonderful adventure. As M. Sprague indicated it's an awkward place for the anchor, but you can't always get solid bolts where you'd like them. Fun moves and a lot of interesting climbing in 60 feet. Jul 27, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I've seen many people get freaked out and or fall trying to go straight up to the anchors after the traverse... It is much more reasonable at the grade to traverse past the anchor to the left, then head up and back right to clip the chains... May 22, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
Yeah man I agree this deserves more than 2.5 stars... Jan 7, 2009
losbill
  5.6
losbill  
  5.6
C'mon folks! What other 5.6 sport route at Rumney is as interesting and as much fun as Glory Jean's!!! Let's get this thing up to at least a solid 3 stars!!! It's a dang adventure! No boring climbing straight up a bolt line on this thing! Jan 7, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think Tim K Sr. has replaced them. I wish I had been able to find a less awkward spot for the anchors, but I had to get past hollow rock.

Glory Jean's is the old name of the diner out on Rt 25. BITD when you could camp in the parking lot and before the CalmPost Cafe, we would wake up and go there to warm up, eat, flirt with the waitress and charge our batteries. The traverse reminded me of the counter. Nov 26, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the quick clips on this route looked so bad yesterday (5/23/07) that i wouldnt think of useing them... May 24, 2007