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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Tim Kemple Sr.
Page Views: 2,633 total, 21/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Just right of Easily Amused, Easily Aroused climbs straight up the center of the parking lot wall. Boulder up a suprisingly hard start to clip the first bolt, or stick clip if you're not feeling saucy. After you've clipped you'll be met by the crux: a ten foot section of technical slab climbing with thin slopers and crimps. The hands are awful in this section, though they can easily be overcome by creative, precise footwork. After firing the crux and clipping the third bolt, head up and right where you will be met with delightful 5.7 climbing to the chains.

Easily Aroused presents a great opportunity to improve on your technical footwork and build crimp strength without working up too much of a sweat... that is if you can keep it together while clipping the first few bolts. Definitely hard at the grade, though fun nonetheless.

Location

Right of Easily Amused and left of Egg McMeadows- best characterized by its thin slabby nature and difficult start.

Protection

5 bolts to LO.

Photos

coverbird
  5.9
coverbird  
  5.9
I did this thinking it was not the 5.7 but the 10.b, and boy you could have fooled me (actually I was fooled)! I guess I'm out of shape. You can get to the anchors of this from the 5.7 to the left if you aren't feeling up to the start.

It makes more sense that it is a 5.9 to me. <.< I thoroughly enjoyed this climb, though, and loved the crimp challenge. Aug 17, 2017
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.9
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.9
Great thought provoking climbing, up to the third bolt. Couple of hard 5.9 moves. Easy climbing from that point to the top. Jul 19, 2017
"Looked like one of the 5.7s from the ground so hopped right on. Some thought provoking moves" ..... Me, too! Pretty hard! Sandbag if you are expecting 5.7! Jul 6, 2017
Thomas McCrill
Fort Collins, CO
Thomas McCrill   Fort Collins, CO
I jumped on the route and thought for the most part it was 5.6 or 5.7 climbing. The only exception was the start between the first and second clip, where there were two hard bouldering style moves almost in the 5.10 range. I think precise footwork is key. Jul 21, 2016
anna.gutwin
Burlington, VT
  5.9
anna.gutwin   Burlington, VT
  5.9
It's a one or two move wonder, and squeezed in, but thought provoking and worth while. Jul 7, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.9+
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.9+
Maybe I am missing some beta, but the crux on this feels awfully thin for a 5.9. This route feels harder to me than Egg McMeadows. Apr 1, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Will definitely skip next time. Not even worth TR'ing. Moves are awkward at best and holds for the hands suck (that's still understated). I was just happy to get my gear for the anchor down when done and move on. Only climb at Rumney I lowered off feeling completely underwhelmed. Mar 20, 2012
S. Neoh  
Felt 9+ or 10a on a humid day to me with a tough second clip. Definitely gets one's attention, esp so if it is the 1st route of the day!
On on-sight, I can easily see how one might think this route has a 5.10 crux!! Jul 25, 2010
Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8+
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8+
Looked like one of the 5.7s from the ground so hopped right on. Some thought provoking moves just after clipping the second bolt. Our group consensus was a stiff 5.8 but we aren't used to Rumney grades. Oct 9, 2009
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
I was climbing at dusk with a friend recently, and I hopped on this with my headlamp thinking it was one of the 5.7's that abound in this area... I remember thinking that it felt more like a 5.10 with some tough clips... so it must have been this route! Definitely some small holds but sufficient feet. Jul 17, 2009
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
  5.9
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
  5.9
Not a fan of this one...a bit of a contrived squeeze job IMHO, but definitely gets your attention until the third bolt. I have seen two people deck on this route thinking it was 5.7. Apr 26, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
amen to that brotha :) Jan 4, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
Mike i couldn't agree more this climb makes you think about technique not just pulling on holds... I actually don't use the undercling, to each their own though, as we all know there is no right way just our own preferred way. Jan 4, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i really like this route. i was shut down the first time i tried it but after doin in a couple of times its wicked fun. the crux has a cool two finger pocket undercling that makes me happy :) Jan 4, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I agree completely, the first time I tried this route I tried to just pull on the crimps which didn't work I had to readjust myself and use my feet, but as Lee said above don't mistake it for Easily Amused or you will be in for quite a surprise. Jan 4, 2009
losbill
  5.9
losbill  
  5.9
Tim Kemple, Sr put this route up. Good description, I am a weak puppy so I really need to focus on the feet, just pulling on the crimps won't get me there.

Although it is short it is nice to have an additional 5.9, and a challenging one at that, on a wall that sees many groups of mixed abilities climbing in the low to moderate range. Jan 4, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
fun route with a couple tricky moves, good 5.9, but dont get it confused with easily amused you will be in for a surprised Nov 20, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I've seen a few cocky novices hop on this for a warm up thinking it is Easily Amused (5.7) and being shut down hard before realizing that this route isn't in the guide book... so the girl they were trying to impress is just left wondering what happened to the cool dude she showed up with... Jun 2, 2007