Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith, 11/96
Page Views: 3,730 total · 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


254 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Not a particularly memorable route, but the moves are good. It's just short and somewhat non-descript.

Climb the face on mostly crimpy holds, past an undercling and on to more of the same. It reminds me of the first part of Rise and Shine (5.7); however, the second half of that route is the better part.

A good route to keep you climbing while you wait for other climbs to open up.

Location

Next route right of the start of Glory Jeans (5.6).

Protection

3 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
When doing this route there will be a jug about four feet to your left that is tempting, do not go to this it makes it much harder. But this route is a lot of fun. Dec 24, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
The right quick link on this route could be replaced its worn more than halfway though and the left one ir reaching halfway through. i will mention this to Jim Shimberg and see what can be done Apr 14, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
What is the bolted upper part of this? Jun 6, 2011
S. Neoh  
That would be Rubicon, listed here too. I thought the crux of Rubicon is pretty tough - hard 5.10 but your mileage may vary. Jun 6, 2011
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I found it after I posted. Jun 9, 2011
S. Neoh  
The extension, Rubicon, is here - mountainproject.com/v/rubic… . Yes, it is fairly new.
And, yes, I would agree for shorties like me, Rubicon feels about .10d. Some holds might have broken off or gotten smaller since I was last on it. If one were to lead thru Easily Amused to reach Rubicon, falling off the crux move and possibly hitting the ledge is a consideration, with rope stretch. I do not think Rubicon is poorly bolted, it is just the nature of the route. If I were to lead Rubicon again, I will probably bring my partner up to the ledge and lead it as a separate pitch from Easily Amused. Oct 29, 2012