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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith, 11/96
Page Views: 3,349 total, 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Not a particularly memorable route, but the moves are good. It's just short and somewhat non-descript.

Climb the face on mostly crimpy holds, past an undercling and on to more of the same. It reminds me of the first part of Rise and Shine (5.7); however, the second half of that route is the better part.

A good route to keep you climbing while you wait for other climbs to open up.

Location

Next route right of the start of Glory Jeans (5.6).

Protection

3 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

S. Neoh  
The extension, Rubicon, is here - mountainproject.com/v/rubic… . Yes, it is fairly new.
And, yes, I would agree for shorties like me, Rubicon feels about .10d. Some holds might have broken off or gotten smaller since I was last on it. If one were to lead thru Easily Amused to reach Rubicon, falling off the crux move and possibly hitting the ledge is a consideration, with rope stretch. I do not think Rubicon is poorly bolted, it is just the nature of the route. If I were to lead Rubicon again, I will probably bring my partner up to the ledge and lead it as a separate pitch from Easily Amused. Oct 29, 2012
J Meagher
  5.6
J Meagher  
  5.6
Really fun face climbng on great crimps in the first half and some nice jugs on the upper part. The quick-clips aren't that great though; both are about halfway worn through, and although they are still useable, they probably won't be in about a year or so.

About the upper half, rubicon; this is not listed in the newest guidebook, so it must be fairly new. I talked to some guys who had just done it, and they said that the crux is basically one really big deadpoint about 3/4 of the way up. They also mentioned that this felt significantly harder than espresso and was probably about 5.10d. Oct 29, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I found it after I posted. Jun 9, 2011
S. Neoh  
That would be Rubicon, listed here too. I thought the crux of Rubicon is pretty tough - hard 5.10 but your mileage may vary. Jun 6, 2011
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
What is the bolted upper part of this? Jun 6, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
The right quick link on this route could be replaced its worn more than halfway though and the left one ir reaching halfway through. i will mention this to Jim Shimberg and see what can be done Apr 14, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
When doing this route there will be a jug about four feet to your left that is tempting, do not go to this it makes it much harder. But this route is a lot of fun. Dec 24, 2008