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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: D Quinn
Page Views: 1,182 total · 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

I'm torn on this route cause it has cool moves for sure and some beautiful jugs on steep rock. However it reminds me a bit of Bone Head Roof (5.10) at the Meadows in that when you are pulling the crux you are really counting on your belayer to keep you off the ledge below you. that aspect makes it slightly less attractive.

Climb up the 5.9 boulder problem start to a big ledge. Walk over to the bolt under the big roof clip it and decide hoe you want to tackle this thing. Surprisingly nice jugs lead to the only non jug on the upper section which is the crux. After that you can stand up and clip the chains.

Location

30 feet right of Cafe au Lait (5.7)

Protection

6 bolts to anchors. if top roping the route be careful of the rope running across the sharp rock when hanging.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Ok i dont ever like to say a route is not worth climbing but after looking at this thing, i want a second opinion, is it worth getting on or is it better off being avoided and just sticking to the better climbs in the area? Dec 28, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i say do as many other 5.11s as you can and if you get bored (not likely) try this one... Dec 28, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Thats how i felt but i would like to do all the routes at the parking lot wall so i will have to give it a go i guess Dec 28, 2008
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
I tried this soon after dave put it up and struggled. and like matt in my quest to finish the wall i did it this summer. definitely some burly moves and harder for shorter people. Oct 8, 2009
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
I actually thought the short crux section is quite good and BURLY. But the rock quality and sharpness before and after this section detracts from the overall quality. Too bad.
Not a good candidate for the aspiring 5.11 leader. Oct 9, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I'd say this might not be one you would feel to repeat often, but worth doing if nearby. It has some good moves. I agree with Soon's description. Feb 13, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Red pointed this today after trying it once on lead last week. Was not thinking about hitting the ledge when I was clipping. Fun moves indeed!
Maybe it's just me, but this was my first 5.11 red point and found it to be a good first 11 because of how short it is. Apr 21, 2012

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