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Mr. Coffee

5.11a, Sport,  Avg: 1.4 from 39 votes
FA: D Quinn
New Hampshire > Rumney > Parking Lot Wall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. DetailsDrop down

Description

I'm torn on this route cause it has cool moves for sure and some beautiful jugs on steep rock. However it reminds me a bit of Bone Head Roof (5.10) at the Meadows in that when you are pulling the crux you are really counting on your belayer to keep you off the ledge below you. that aspect makes it slightly less attractive.

Climb up the 5.9 boulder problem start to a big ledge. Walk over to the bolt under the big roof clip it and decide hoe you want to tackle this thing. Surprisingly nice jugs lead to the only non jug on the upper section which is the crux. After that you can stand up and clip the chains.

Location

30 feet right of Cafe au Lait (5.7)

Protection

6 bolts to anchors. if top roping the route be careful of the rope running across the sharp rock when hanging.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rope hanging on "Mr. Coffee"
[Hide Photo] Rope hanging on "Mr. Coffee"
Dovi getting a little sideways on this climb
[Hide Photo] Dovi getting a little sideways on this climb

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Ok i dont ever like to say a route is not worth climbing but after looking at this thing, i want a second opinion, is it worth getting on or is it better off being avoided and just sticking to the better climbs in the area? Dec 28, 2008
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] i say do as many other 5.11s as you can and if you get bored (not likely) try this one... Dec 28, 2008
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Thats how i felt but i would like to do all the routes at the parking lot wall so i will have to give it a go i guess Dec 28, 2008
Jake D.
Northeast
[Hide Comment] I tried this soon after dave put it up and struggled. and like matt in my quest to finish the wall i did it this summer. definitely some burly moves and harder for shorter people. Oct 8, 2009
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] I actually thought the short crux section is quite good and BURLY. But the rock quality and sharpness before and after this section detracts from the overall quality. Too bad.
Not a good candidate for the aspiring 5.11 leader. Oct 9, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] I'd say this might not be one you would feel to repeat often, but worth doing if nearby. It has some good moves. I agree with Soon's description. Feb 13, 2012
onX Sucks
onX sucks, USA
 
[Hide Comment] Red pointed this today after trying it once on lead last week. Was not thinking about hitting the ledge when I was clipping. Fun moves indeed!
Maybe it's just me, but this was my first 5.11 red point and found it to be a good first 11 because of how short it is. Apr 21, 2012
Franky Lapitino
New London, NH
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Not nearly as bad or as sketchy as Bone Head Roof Apr 21, 2024