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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 2,459 total · 20/month
Shared By: D.Quinn on Sep 27, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Nice featured schist and quartz face climbing once you get past the (easy) often wet gully start. Could be still quite sharp, so keep your weight on you feet as much as possible!

Location

Between Chloe's Breakfast Special and Shealyn's Way

Protection

11 bolts to L.O.'s

Photos

Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
50ft... any other description of it aside from "nice"? <3 Oct 3, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Can I get more of a description of this route why did it get a PG-13 rating? Dec 28, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
first off i agree with matt and jeff... i would love to hear more about this route. and second in between those routes seems like its really crammed in there Dec 28, 2008
losbill
  5.8+
losbill  
  5.8+
Regarding description, my main contribution is that the route is sharp! Got on it shortly after it was put up and my hands felt as if they had been punctured by a thousand pins when I was done. I assumed it would mellow out after a few years of traffic, doesn't seem to have happened, although I haven't been on it in two years. Sure makes you think about your feet since you don't want to put much pressure on the hands.

The crux for me is pretty close to the top at a bit of a bulge with no "jugs" above it. The temptation is to reach up and crank on small sharp holds, pain; or even to mantle, never did it but would really be painful!!! For me the key is to balance up with the hands and focus on the feet and "walk" up through this bit.

Regarding crowding; I feel it is a worthwhile, independent line with a character distinct from Chloe's or Shealyn's and a nice addition to this face.

Regarding the PG13 rating, I won't second guess the FAist but personally felt it is a well protected, nicely bolted pitch. Jan 4, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Thank you very much for in information on this route it has sparked my interest for sure. Jan 4, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
thanks for the description it will definitely make me look a little closer at the line Jan 4, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
when i first climbed at rumney between 15 and 20 years ago everything at the meadows and parkinglot wall was as sharp as losbill describes...

Thats one good thing about the over crowding, my hands dont bleed as much when i climb there thanks to the traffic... Jan 5, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Thanks for the description! :) Jan 5, 2009
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
I'm not sure why DQ put it as pg 13 either.. there are plenty of bolts it seems.. even a few too many at the bottom. Great long warm up. Similar to Cloe's but harde. I also have 13 bolts written in my book. Mar 24, 2009
Adam Sadowski
Watertown, MA
Adam Sadowski   Watertown, MA
Not sure if the 50 ft refers to the climb above the mossy ramp section or the whole climb but if Chloe's is 70 ft in here this should be the same, if not more. Sep 19, 2009
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
5.9-
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
5.9-
The anchors are 80 feet from the ground. I climbed it today with a fat 50m rope and lowered. Just enough rope to safely make it. Nov 18, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.8
S. Neoh  
  5.8
I counted 11 bolts en route so 13 draws total. A lot. One can skip a few if you are solid at the grade. Nice, long route. Not sure why I waited till today to climb it for the first time! My loss. For me, the crux is near the top and is exactly one move. The rest of the climb is easier and not as interesting as its neighbor to the left. Still a worthwhile route to climb more than once. I will be back. Oct 11, 2015
N Nelsen
Thornton, NH
  5.8
N Nelsen   Thornton, NH
  5.8
An enjoyable route, extremely well protected with an excess of bolts. The high crux clipping the last bolt felt more like 5.8 to me, the rest was easy 5.7 climbing. Definitely recommend if the route is dry, definitely not as sharp as it was in the past. Sep 14, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
In the old book, Q/C was 5.9. In the new, it's 5.9-. I'm quibbling (of course), but I prefer the old grade. 1 day ago

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