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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg8/00
Page Views: 2,212 total · 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Almost always wet but for a short window of time in the late summer early fall this is quite a fun climb.Due to the wetness it can be a bit vegetated when it hasn't seen much action in a while. In the winter it is a really cool ice climb called Franky Lee.

Follow flakes using a bunch of layback moves with nice jugs between. Good footwork will pay off if this route is at your limit. If it was always dry I'd give it another star for sure.

Apparently when Jim bolted this line he had ice in mind as much as rock.

Location

Left of Rea Sea Pedestrian (5.10b). the route follows big flakes up a typically wet (sometimes a waterfall) section of rock.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor.

Photos

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Ladd

  5.7
Ladd    
  5.7
I've only ever done this climb when it is dry, and it is great for sure, but truly what Lee said this climb isn't frequently dry, how unfortunate. Nov 29, 2007
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Dead Sea? May 3, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
Jeff,

Jim is Hebrew and Moses (a Hebrew) parted and walked across the Red Sea while running away from an army, he let the sea collapse on his suitors killing them, this resulted in the neighboring route named Red Sea Pedestrian and I think this is just a play on words of his...

I will ask him sometime what it means if anything special Jun 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
I did this route today while there was a waterfall going over this route, it was fun but made it exciting for a 5.7. get on tis no matter what Aug 30, 2009
J Meagher
  5.8
J Meagher  
  5.8
Awesome route with nice big moves between huge flakes and jugs. Definently feels 5.7ish until the last bolt, which I found to be around 5.8, high, and extremely awkward to get a draw into. I ended up having to lower off and my partner (who has about one foot reach more than me) was able to finish it. Despite the dirty and sometimes wet appearance, this is definently well worth your time to do. However, if you are short and 5.7 is not well within your limit, consider having a taller partner leave a pre-hung draw in the last bolt.

I did notice that about half of the bolts were slightly loose and moved around a bit when i clipped them. If a bolt hangar moves around a little is it still likely to hold you in a fall, or should it be expected to fail? Oct 29, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
vimeo.com/54177729 Nov 24, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Quite the hero loop, especially for barefooting! Nov 24, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
The camera angle makes it more dramatic, but we talked about the slack. :) Nov 24, 2012
Be careful when traversing right on the ledge about halfway up the route (the one that right now has some bushes growing out of it) -- there's a triangular rock, maybe a foot long on it's two shorter sides and a few inches thick, resting at the base of the bushes. You probably wouldn't step on it doing the climb but it could easily be dislodged by a fall from above the ledge or a careless step while traversing. There were too many people around yesterday to do anything about it but someone probably should try and remove it. Sep 8, 2014
S. Neoh
5.8-
S. Neoh  
5.8-
First time on it today. Def dry enough. Way exceeded my expectations. Nice route (very Good). Pity it is almost always wet. Oct 16, 2016

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