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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: Cliff Mask and Tim 9/00
Page Views: 2,473 total · 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A fun but not super memorable climb just left of the very popular route Glory Jean's (5.6). Mostly moderate climbing with a couple of interesting moves thrown in between.feels like an easier version of the route to the left Red Sea Pedestrian (5.10b) which has the same pattern of cruxes.

Start up the face left of the left facing corner/chimney. Follow bolts up the face to a bit of a bulge. Make a challenging move over the bulge to more good holds and moderate climbing. Continue up to one more tricky spot before gaining the quick clips at the top of the cliff. This puts you about 10 feet left of the clips for Glory Jean's.

Location

The bolt line to the left of Glory Jean's.

Protection

8 bolts to Quick Clips.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
The anchors are really far back on this so if you are planning on top roping this bring stuff to extend the anchors. Aug 30, 2009
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
All the holds on this are good enough, and the sequence straightforward enough, that I would call this a good first lead for people who are doing their first Rumney climb. Certainly less cryptic/sharp/crimpy than most of the other easy climbs on the lower crags.

Missed the second bolt though. No clue how that happened. I remember saying to myself "Christ, this is really runout for a PLW climb"... Oct 6, 2013
Calvin Tague
Boston, MA
Calvin Tague   Boston, MA
At this point there are no quick clips at the top of this route. And in my opinion this is a memorable climb for this wall... good confidence builder with some nice reachy holds. Oct 7, 2013

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