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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: david quinn 7/00
Page Views: 4,059 total, 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Location

Starts in the obvious chimney left of A Week With Pete.On the left side of the crag.

Description

A great 5.7 climb involving all different techniques, from chimney to slab to stemming and a few steep pulls at the top.

Start in the chimney right of A Week With Pete.
Climb up the chimney clipping bolts to your left then climb out of the chimney on to the slab on the left, no real friction needed but it's much less than vertical. Follow straight up til you get to the steep wall. Move left in to the corner and STEM up the corner (NOTE: people who don't understand stemming will find this part very hard for the grade.). When possible, move back up and right to gain a few steep jug pulls and a nice stance to clip from.

A must climb at the grade.

Protection

11 bolts to quick clips.
Jacob Yoder
On the Road
 
Jacob Yoder   On the Road
 
Correct me if I'm wrong here but the description says "start in chimney right of a week with pete.." when really the chimney is left of week with pete. I know it's a silly nitpick but just in case anyone is confused! Also, I'll mention the bottom half of the route was wet today but my friend and I did a sweet link-up, climbing to the top of peewee's (5.3) and then I hopped left across the chimney and led the dry part of Shealyn's Way. Good way to avoid wetness if you're sketched by it! Apr 14, 2017
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
  5.7+
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
  5.7+
Amazing route for the grade, super varied styles, super interesting moves and a decent length. Well worth it, even if you climb well above the grade. Oct 14, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Climb it in high summer when it's dry — it's a terrific route. It wanders and involves lots of fun stemming and interesting climbing. It's got kind of an alpine feel near the top in the final notch. Fun, fun, fun! Feb 26, 2014
SYBold  
If you're toproping and once you've anchored in, remove the last quickdraw before lowering because the rope can clip back into it (both ropes are in the quickdraw).

Don't know if that occurs everytime, but it happened to us. Hope that is clear. Oct 26, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Wet or Dry this route is killer. One of the best at rumney for its grade! Apr 13, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
this route is often tarnished by wetness but it can still be done even if it is wet, so if you get to rumney and this route is dry you must get on it Jan 28, 2009