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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Paul Wonsavage11/96
Page Views: 4,308 total, 33/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

The start is just like the rest of the routes on this section, crimpy 5.7 climbing until you get to the bulge where the holds stay small, but the angle increases a few tricky moves may stump you, but there is a rewarding jug over the lip if you hit it right. Mantel and continue easily to the quick clips.

Another recommended route on this section.

Location

Just right of Rise and Shine (5.7) starting between the cliff and the boulder.

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
5.10a
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
5.10a
Good 5.10 for breaking into the grade. Sep 25, 2017
caesar.salad
earth
 
caesar.salad   earth
 
Several spinning d rings. Aug 15, 2015
Ming
  5.9
Ming  
  5.9
Definitely not 10A. The reachy move can be skipped by going left - which is what almost everybody does these days. Traverse back to a blind reach above the bolt isn't even that bad if one is calm because the feet is there and can lean into the wall pretty well. Oct 14, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.9
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.9
Ward Smith's 2009 guidebook lists Egg McMeadows as a 5.10a, but it is easy at that rating. There is one hard move on the climb near the top (because it's inobvious), but if you know what to do (undercling with your left hand and reach way high and right with your right hand for a "secret" hold), the move is not technically difficult. A 5.9 leader will not have difficulty on this route. Aug 3, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Save this for lead. It is good; you will be glad you went for the flash/onsight. I have seen people take the fall at the crux, it is safe, just make sure you don;t get the rope behind your leg. Oct 29, 2012
J Meagher
  5.10-
J Meagher  
  5.10-
Would it be possible to traverse right and clip the chains on this after doing rise and shine in order to toprope it, or is it better to just lead the whole route? Oct 29, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.9
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.9
Tried this after deciding to no longer be intimidated by the "5.10" rating (as this is rated 10a in the guidebook). Was quite happy with it, but found the crux easier than Easily Aroused (maybe because I'm tall? I did a big reach for what looked good and found the jug). Anyways, I agree this is a bit shy of a 10a (especially compared to some of the older 5.9's at Rumney) Apr 1, 2012
Jake D.
Northeast
5.8+
Jake D.   Northeast
5.8+
tis still a 9... especially since there seems to always be a big ass tick mark on the hidden hold.. which makes it .8+ Dec 8, 2010
Alyson Sewell
Plymouth, NH
  5.9+
Alyson Sewell   Plymouth, NH
  5.9+
This route is fantastic! Such fun moves, definitely one of my favorite climbs I have done so far! Nov 23, 2009
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
 
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
 
Props to the first ascentionist for not overbolting the top. Always keeps me focused til I clip the anchors - a great climb! Nov 4, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.10a
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.10a
This route is awesome. Scared the shit out of myself at the top cause I thought I was going to fall.

Excellent jugs for last bolt. Mar 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
I always felt there was potential for a good whipper on this route... Dec 27, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
lol i took a surprisingly huge whipper on this route because i messed up the top and it was very fun :) Dec 26, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
If you are extremely pumped after the mantle it will seem run out, but the climbing is easy so don't fret, also to make the crux move employ the use of a small undercling. Dec 24, 2008