Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Matt Keefe '02
Page Views: 1,343 total, 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This is the low roof to the right of Week With Pete. It was in the last two guide books as an open project. Rumor has it that it was sent a few seasons ago.

Start under the roof on a good jug and no feet but the ones above your head. Small crimps and tricky feet are enough to get you powerfully to a good hold. Then power up and shoot for a jug above the lone glue in bolt. From here I led straight up with trad gear then traversed right to the last bolt on Espresso then finished on that so I could use it's anchor. I'm not sure where the first ascent finished but straight up was dirty and lacked an anchor as far as I could see.

The bouldery start is quite good in my opinion. The upper section is much easier and nothing special as far as movement goes. It would get done some if it was bolted.

Location

Between Week With Pete and Espresso.

Protection

One bolt then gear then to the top of the cliff or to the anchor of Espresso. Regular rack.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
At the time of the Misdemeanor bolting there was some confusion over whether there was a "new route" or "new bolt" ban. I can't speak for other routes. Perhaps bring the question of this route up with RCA board members if you feel strongly about it. I personally don't think it really needs to be bolted enough to make an exception that goes against the wishes of the FS, as it is very easy to reach the anchor by climbing a short 5.3 to TR it or preplace gear, and if you are climbing at the required grade you probably have the skills to do that.

For further discussion, that is no longer specific to this route, we should probably use the Northeastern States forum. Oct 3, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.12+ PG13
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.12+ PG13
What about the bolts added to Bolt Line in the Meadows? Those weren't there two years ago. Oct 2, 2017
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
To play devil's advocate, wasn't the bolting moratorium in effect when Misdemeanor was bolted at the meadows? The upper bolts added to Sky Pilot? I know the document you provided was updated in 2015 but the moratorium was in the previous guidebook published in 2009?

I would ask what is the difference is between adding two bolts to the top of Sky Pilot and adding a couple bolts to this climb? Oct 2, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
rumney.invisiware.com/wp-co… page 3 and top of 4 It doesn't really fit the exceptions to the rule, to me.

Matt is on here mountainproject.com/u/mk143… Oct 2, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.12+ PG13
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.12+ PG13
Considering putting bolts in the top of this again. Would anyone be horribly opposed to that? Any guess on how to get in touch with Matt Keefe about it? Oct 2, 2017
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Better get at it quick, Eli! :) Definitely a fun climb coming out from under the roof. It's got that WOW-factor, especially being at the Parking Lot Wall and not being in the guide book. I agree with Mike regarding bolts, however, if I never lead this in its current form I wouldn't lose sleep over it. :) Mar 30, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
If it gets bolted, I'll go for it that's for sure... Jan 31, 2014
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
It would be good to bolt if the FA'ist doesn't mind. May 4, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Got some FA info... Matt Keefe did the FA in 2002, Tim Derohen did it in 2003, and it may have seen another... A name never stuck to it so this name will stand for now... Both of them thought 5.12d sounded right... Oct 18, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks much, it is interesting.. but if folks want it bolted ill throw a few in there... what do the people say? Oct 17, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Wow. A hard boulder problem followed by a little trad action. Now that is unique!

Sounds fun. Congrats on the send! Oct 17, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
A note on the grade and the name:
Rumor has it that this route was done a while back but not really reported so that seems like a good name unless another one comes from the FAist.
Rumor also says that he called it hard 5.12. i felt it was a v7 boulder problem followed by 5.8 which would sound like 13a... it is just tough to rate routes like this so im calling it 12d for now and hope others climb it and come up with a consensus... Oct 17, 2012