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Rumor Has It
5.12d,
Trad, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
FA: Matt Keefe '02
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Parking Lot Wall
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area.
Details
Description
This is the low roof to the right of Week With Pete. It was in the last two guide books as an open project. Rumor has it that it was sent a few seasons ago.
Start under the roof on a good jug and no feet but the ones above your head. Small crimps and tricky feet are enough to get you powerfully to a good hold. Then power up and shoot for a jug above the lone glue in bolt. From here I led straight up with trad gear then traversed right to the last bolt on Espresso then finished on that so I could use it's anchor. I'm not sure where the first ascent finished but straight up was dirty and lacked an anchor as far as I could see.
The bouldery start is quite good in my opinion. The upper section is much easier and nothing special as far as movement goes. It would get done some if it was bolted.
Location
Between Week With Pete and Espresso.
Protection
One bolt then gear then to the top of the cliff or to the anchor of Espresso. Regular rack.
[Hide Photo] The route starts on a jug in the big dark roof... from there it moves a little left and up the arete staying just to the right side of it... then i went way right to meet up with espresso...
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Rumor has it that this route was done a while back but not really reported so that seems like a good name unless another one comes from the FAist.
Rumor also says that he called it hard 5.12. i felt it was a v7 boulder problem followed by 5.8 which would sound like 13a... it is just tough to rate routes like this so im calling it 12d for now and hope others climb it and come up with a consensus... Oct 17, 2012
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Grand Junction, CO
Montreal
New Hampshire
New England
Matt is on here mountainproject.com/u/mk143… Oct 2, 2017
Center Harbor, NH
I would ask what is the difference is between adding two bolts to the top of Sky Pilot and adding a couple bolts to this climb? Oct 2, 2017
New England
For further discussion, that is no longer specific to this route, we should probably use the Northeastern States forum. Oct 3, 2017