Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Rumor Has It

5.12d, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Matt Keefe '02
New Hampshire > Rumney > Parking Lot Wall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the low roof to the right of Week With Pete. It was in the last two guide books as an open project. Rumor has it that it was sent a few seasons ago.

Start under the roof on a good jug and no feet but the ones above your head. Small crimps and tricky feet are enough to get you powerfully to a good hold. Then power up and shoot for a jug above the lone glue in bolt. From here I led straight up with trad gear then traversed right to the last bolt on Espresso then finished on that so I could use it's anchor. I'm not sure where the first ascent finished but straight up was dirty and lacked an anchor as far as I could see.

The bouldery start is quite good in my opinion. The upper section is much easier and nothing special as far as movement goes. It would get done some if it was bolted.

Location

Between Week With Pete and Espresso.

Protection

One bolt then gear then to the top of the cliff or to the anchor of Espresso. Regular rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route starts on a jug in the big dark roof... from there it moves a little left and up the arete staying just to the right side of it... then i went way right to meet up with espresso...
[Hide Photo] The route starts on a jug in the big dark roof... from there it moves a little left and up the arete staying just to the right side of it... then i went way right to meet up with espresso...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] A note on the grade and the name:
Rumor has it that this route was done a while back but not really reported so that seems like a good name unless another one comes from the FAist.
Rumor also says that he called it hard 5.12. i felt it was a v7 boulder problem followed by 5.8 which would sound like 13a... it is just tough to rate routes like this so im calling it 12d for now and hope others climb it and come up with a consensus... Oct 17, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] thanks much, it is interesting.. but if folks want it bolted ill throw a few in there... what do the people say? Oct 17, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Got some FA info... Matt Keefe did the FA in 2002, Tim Derohen did it in 2003, and it may have seen another... A name never stuck to it so this name will stand for now... Both of them thought 5.12d sounded right... Oct 18, 2012
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
[Hide Comment] It would be good to bolt if the FA'ist doesn't mind. May 4, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
[Hide Comment] If it gets bolted, I'll go for it that's for sure... Jan 31, 2014
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Better get at it quick, Eli! :) Definitely a fun climb coming out from under the roof. It's got that WOW-factor, especially being at the Parking Lot Wall and not being in the guide book. I agree with Mike regarding bolts, however, if I never lead this in its current form I wouldn't lose sleep over it. :) Mar 30, 2015
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] rumney.invisiware.com/wp-co… page 3 and top of 4 It doesn't really fit the exceptions to the rule, to me.

Matt is on here mountainproject.com/u/mk143… Oct 2, 2017
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] To play devil's advocate, wasn't the bolting moratorium in effect when Misdemeanor was bolted at the meadows? The upper bolts added to Sky Pilot? I know the document you provided was updated in 2015 but the moratorium was in the previous guidebook published in 2009?

I would ask what is the difference is between adding two bolts to the top of Sky Pilot and adding a couple bolts to this climb? Oct 2, 2017
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] At the time of the Misdemeanor bolting there was some confusion over whether there was a "new route" or "new bolt" ban. I can't speak for other routes. Perhaps bring the question of this route up with RCA board members if you feel strongly about it. I personally don't think it really needs to be bolted enough to make an exception that goes against the wishes of the FS, as it is very easy to reach the anchor by climbing a short 5.3 to TR it or preplace gear, and if you are climbing at the required grade you probably have the skills to do that.

For further discussion, that is no longer specific to this route, we should probably use the Northeastern States forum. Oct 3, 2017