Type: Sport
FA: D Quinn
Page Views: 4,770 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This one surprised me because the bottom of the route looks chossy and is a little loose in places but the climbing is super cool moderate chimney climbing and the rock gets better as you keep climbing. It's also a bit longer than it looks.

Climb the chimney clipping bolts on the left past some bad rock to a good stance continue up the chimney as the rock gets better clip bolts on the right. Many options for beta i ended up pulling a corkscrew move which is always fun. After the chimney ends climb moderate rock to the chains on the left.

Location

Chimney just right of Juan Valdez (5.10b).

Protection

8 bolts to anchor (guide book says 7, but it's incorrect) . Long draws on last 2 bolts help.

Photos