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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: D Quinn
Page Views: 3,794 total · 28/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007 with updates from Josh Gates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This one surprised me because the bottom of the route looks chossy and is a little loose in places but the climbing is super cool moderate chimney climbing and the rock gets better as you keep climbing. It's also a bit longer than it looks.

Climb the chimney clipping bolts on the left past some bad rock to a good stance continue up the chimney as the rock gets better clip bolts on the right. Many options for beta i ended up pulling a corkscrew move which is always fun. After the chimney ends climb moderate rock to the chains on the left.

Location

Chimney just right of Juan Valdez (5.10b).

Protection

8 bolts to anchor (guide book says 7, but it's incorrect) . Long draws on last 2 bolts help.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
I belayed a friend on this and he did the corkscrew aswell looks sweet! Jun 13, 2009
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
climbing it the whole way on the right side is also fun and adds maybe a half grade if you're looking for a variation. Dec 17, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
So Jake, would that make it a 5.6b, or would it be a 5.6c? Dec 18, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
5.6b/c :) Dec 18, 2009
I don't know lee, as with so many of the bouldery routes at rumney, its pretty height dependent. I'd say 5.6b if your above 6', 5.6c if your short. Dec 23, 2009
N Nelsen
Thornton, NH
N Nelsen   Thornton, NH
This is a great climb if you like chimneys. I've always ended up stemming facing out and have to rotate back to climb onto the ledge (I don't know if this is the "corkscrew move" that Matt mentioned.) Jun 10, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Cool chimney moves and a bit longer than I expected. Sep 14, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This is an all right route, but you guys giving it 3 stars? You need to get around more. 3 stars is a great route, like Waimea. Giving it 3 stars only leaves 1 more to distinguish routes like Masterpiece, Centerpiece and China Beach from it. I liked it, but this thing deserves 1 star, maybe 2, if you were in a really good mood when you did it. I am not dissing the route, just would like the star ratings to have some accuracy relative to each other. Sep 14, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
Personally I think it is 3 stars for a 5.6. When I give route a rating it is for routes at the grade not compared to routes 4 or more grades harder. This is just my personally way of doing it but I think many other people do it this way too :) So comparing it to Waimea is not a comparison I would like to take on but comparing it to False Modesty in the Meadows it is much better therefor giving it 3 stars instead of 2 :) IMO Sep 14, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
Well i see where you are both coming from but i must say it is a system based on opinion so we have to deal with what others think of the route and put in our 2 cents... it is nice that you can see what each person graded the climb so you can be like "oh Lee gave it 4 stars and Jay gave it 1 so it must be somewhere in between " haha...

i always liked that Repentance (as a rock climb) got 4 stars on a 3 star scale in Ed Websters Cathedral guide... seeing as it is a nasty scary route... Sep 15, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
Climbed this thing again today! I enjoy it so much every time. There was some ice on the opening part which made it more difficult, but it is just very enjoyable easy climbing. :) Mar 27, 2011
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Very fun climbing through the chimney Jun 13, 2011
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Super technical fun for beginners. May 16, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
I have been doing a lot of 'green-pointing' lately (sport routes on trad gear), and I must say this route protects fairly well on gear. The first 15 feet really only has one place for natural pro but from the 15 foot point and above it protects very well. Aug 12, 2012
Be careful: We found and "x'd" a few loose holds; a helmet would be a wise option. Sep 17, 2012
I remember this climb having one additional bolt to what was mentioned in Ward Smith's book. Think there are 8 bolts and not 7. Sep 30, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
As mentioned earlier, look out for loose hand-sized blocks on this one. Desperate beginners might haul on them. Jul 13, 2015

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