Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith 11/96
Page Views: 5,461 total · 39/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


285 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Start up crimps and tricky route finding to gain a few good holds and slightly easier climbing up the left facing flakes to the top.

Remember to head left then back right at the top. If you go straight up toward the chains, it's a bit more challenging.

This is one of the better routes on the center section of the crag (there are a few squeezed in lines here now that are pretty generic).but this one is recommended.

Location

In the center of the cliff starting behind a big boulder and trending left around the difficulty and up some layback flakes.

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
This climb has little bit of everything, from face climbing, to Heuco's, to "overhung" moves. I recommend this route to all people who enjoy fun routes. This is one of the routes I do everytime I am by the Parking Lot Wall.

Also if you are looking for a little more of a challenge, on TR you can go straight over the bulge instead of around it as the route goes. My friend Elin will only do the route this way. Dec 1, 2008
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
Very fun climb indeed, especially the flake section. Just be careful as I noticed yesterday that there is a grape fruit sized loose rock in the middle of that flake. I don't think it would come out too easily but be careful. Oct 18, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
That loose block is still there. Its almost ready to pop. I tried pulling it out today but no luck. Jun 6, 2011
J Meagher
  5.7
J Meagher  
  5.7
This is a great beginner route with nice crimps and some good small jugs. If you're looking for a candidate for your first outdoor 5.7, do this route! The bolts are very close together, and it has no awkward or nervous moves. It is well worth your time to lead this, and a toprope variation of going directly over the bulge adds slightly to the grade. Oct 21, 2012
J Meagher
  5.7
J Meagher  
  5.7
I did this again yesterday and looked for that loose block mentioned above. It's still there, and ready to fall, but the blue x on it has been worn away and is barely visible. I didn't try to pull it out because there was a group on egg mcmeadows below me. In a scenario like that, should I try to pull a loose rock out, or is it better to just warn other groups on the wall about it? Oct 29, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
That block has been loose for the last six years and hasnt budged... I have tried several times to remove it to no avail. I would say be careful of it but dont expect it to come flying down anytime soon :) Oct 29, 2012
I DID THIS TODAY! May 28, 2013
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
 
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
 
If you're short, you will not be able to clip the first bolt from the comfortable ledge, but instead will have to move up onto the crimps above it to clip. At 5'1'' it was impossible for me to clip from the ledge. My 5'5'' partner could do it, but barely. 5'9'' climber was able to do it with ease.

The clip is high enough and with an awkward enough fall that if you're short and don't feel super solid at the grade, you may want to stick clip the first bolt. Aug 5, 2018