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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: J.Cullem (Oct. 2009)
Page Views: 589 total, 6/month
Shared By: jcullem on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Located above the anchors of Easily Amused (5.7). From those anchors – at the big ledge/chimney with the tree – follow moderate terrain and good ledges up to the base of a steep headwall. Move through the thin, technical crimp moves (crux) to increasingly better holds/flakes that trend up and slightly left to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Best done as one push from the ground by clipping a draw to the anchor of Easily Amused for a complete long route to the top of the cliff. It may also be done as an independent second pitch after that route, or by traversing in from the second big ledge of Glory Jean’s (5.6), where that route traverses left.

Please do not top rope off the ring anchors, which decreases their lifespan and safety. Instead, place your own draws, and have the last climber in your party thread the rings and rappel (not lower).

Location

Above anchors of Easily Amused (5.7).

Protection

5 bolts. Ring anchors.

Photos

Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
  5.10c
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
  5.10c
its been a while since i've fallen off a ten but this spit me off up top. had a thin L hand and went for a big reach to a jug. came up short and landed on the ledge even though I was at/below a clipped bolt. I've definitely climbed easier 11s but I'm new to Rumney so maybe I'm just adjusting. One move wonder, but worth doing if you're camped at p-lot and desperate for a 10. Apr 18, 2017
Luke Lindeman
Lancaster, PA
Luke Lindeman   Lancaster, PA
I found this to be a bit more challenging than .10b, also it's heady because of that cruxy section right above the ledge. Falling there doesn't feel too great. Jul 28, 2015
also thought this was around 10c, I blew out just above the crux and came pretty close to decking on the ledge. I thought the transition between that second clip above the ledge to the crimps to the right was quite thin and difficult. Sep 13, 2014
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
  5.10c
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
  5.10c
I noticed that the left anchor nut tends to come loose because the tension from a rappel on the rings turns the nut and hanger counter-clockwise. It's been loose every time I've topped out on this route, so I extended it with a couple quicklinks and put clips on it.

Hopefully that keeps things a bit more snug and keeps your ropes happy! Please don't TR on the quick clips. Thanks! Nov 17, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Finally got around to finishing this one. I went up and left to clip the crux bolt, then came down and kept more right to pull the moves. Definitely felt a little more than 10b, and kinda similar in nature to the low crimpy crux of Millennium Falcon. Jul 8, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I jumped on this route the other day. I think it's a nice addition to the plot wall. I definitely agree with the crimpy crux and didn't quite stick it for the flash. Hoping to get on this one again soon and send it. Mar 31, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I did notice a lot of these bolts were loose. I tried to tighten them as much as I could. Sep 30, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I had to downclimb from the first bolt cause I was too scared blowing the clip. I think if I prehang a draw on that crux bolt it will make it easier for me to clip it before im half way into the crux. Sep 28, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
I had/have exactly the same worry since we tend to do both pitches as one climb (think landing on ankle with rope stretch). I have yet to lead this one clean. :( Sep 28, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I tried this the other day. I wussed out on the crux move and pulled on a draw. I was worried if I blew it I would hit the ledge. Am I just overly scared? Sep 28, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10c
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10c
Excellent extension to Easily Amused. Also a great climb for someone looking to try something harder than a 5.10a without requiring stamina or a strong lead head. Apr 1, 2012
Heims
homer, AK
  5.10a/b
Heims   homer, AK
  5.10a/b
Sent this for the first time today...mid February! No less...awesome and fun...love the last couple moves! Feb 21, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
I had a good rematch with this route yesterday. I used the short person's Beta; still felt hard to me. The broken hold on the left did not seem to affect me or how I climbed the route. Jun 4, 2011
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
  5.10c
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
  5.10c
A hold on the left through the crux broke off today. It was shaped like New Hampshire, which was kinda cool. Apr 27, 2011
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
S.Neoh, A piece of the hold could have broken off because i was on it last Nov. and it felt very loose. Oct 12, 2010
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
 
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
 
Thats the short person beta. Sep 2, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
 
Jake D.   Northeast
 
Did this yesterday. Definitely a sweet techy route. Nov 9, 2009
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.10b
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.10b
Thank you for cleaning and bolting this. The crux was a little crimpy but the sequence was fairly obvious and very enjoyable. I have a huge reach, but I found no problem finding the right holds. This is a great addition for this wall. :) Nov 1, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Did this route today and found it to be a great addition to the cliff. Thanks for taking the time to clean and bolt it! The crux seemed thin and reachey to me, definitely on the more technical side, and very fun. Oct 27, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is awesome I had always looked up there and wondered if it was possible. Nice work. Oct 18, 2009