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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: paul wonsavage 11/96
Page Views: 3,657 total · 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Start in the corner right of 100% Columbian (5.11c). Follow good holds up and left to gain a layback flake.
The crux is high up the flake as you get a little pumped. Get on top of the flake and head for the chains.

This climb felt a bit hard at the grade for me (though the only time I climbed it was finishing off a hard day, but I have friends that have it dialed and they seem to find the grade to be right on.
Fun times close to the parking lot.

Location

Just right of 100% Columbian, 5.11c, starting in the corner and heading up and left in to the big flake.

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Since I didn't see it mentioned, the first moves are somewhat thin... easy to ignore if tall + strong. :) Apr 19, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I think thin may be a bit much for the description. If you miss the jug in that first move you will probably drop 3 or 4 feet to a ledge, but the first clip will keep you from going any further. That is assuming you scramble on to the ledge on the right first. If you're doing a direct start it may be a bit more interesting? Apr 19, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Looking at and reading the caption of your ??, I'm realizing we started to the left on a crimpy rail just left of the first bolt. The ledge was still wet from the day before. Doh! Apr 20, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
makes sense. That i agree would be a little thin Apr 20, 2009
N Nelsen
Thornton, NH
N Nelsen   Thornton, NH
I tried this route two days ago for the first time. The opening moves proved bouldery for me at least (I'm 5'5" with a limiting wingspan), but the undercling section was very fun, despite wet conditions. Jun 10, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
If your footwork is bad (or you simply don't trust your feet) then the undercling traverse will be your crux. May 10, 2012
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
No question that the opening moves are bouldery and inobvious. At the start, it looks easier than it is. However, if you are tall and have a long reach, it's not that bad. Oct 6, 2013

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