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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,486 total, 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

More popular and more fun as an ice climb, i recommend waiting till it freezes to climb it. The climbing is actually pretty cool but there are a few BIG down sides. It is quite vegetated, wet, muddy, and on top of all this its pretty poorly protected oh and a few loose rocks. If you mess up on this climb chances are you will hurt your self and a few people below since this is a crowded cliff most days. If you do choose to climb it make sure there is no one below you and you are up for a poorly protected adventure.

Start under Egg McMeadows and follow easy holds up and right in to the vegetated grove to the right of that climb. Climb poorly protected but moderate rock till you get a stance and place some gear under a steeper wall. Move left on dirty slab and up to a dirt/mud gully. I remember when i did this route years ago this finish gully was all mud and i took my shoes off and "climbed" (laughing my ass off) in ankle deep mud to the trees at the top.

Location

The vegetated grove right of Egg McMeadows.

Protection

Normal rack but you wont use much. i remember using a nut tool to dig mud out of a crack.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i agree mark... very well reasoned... May 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It is primarily an ice climb. If it gets all cleaned up, it probably wouldn't form ice as easily. Also, since it is a gully, it will constantly get dirty. I wouldn't try to make it into a sport route.

There can't be enough routes put in at Rumney to alleviate crowding. It only draws more people. The solution is for people to spread out to some other cliffs more (and be willing to hike or bike more than 5 minutes). Efforts should be put in to replace old crappy gear and re-clean some of the good routes that are laying fallow and find new lines at old crags like around Sundown and Woodchuck and other nearby crags. Spread the love. May 10, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Would this climb have potential if it were cleaned up and bolted? I know a lot of people are against bolting trad routes, but seeing as this one has poor protection and isn't exactly as popular as the 5.8 crack, maybe it could offer another good first lead since Week with Pete is often crowded? May 10, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Somebody left an old piton in the gully as you go up towards the exit. Mar 28, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4 R
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4 R
Climbed this today, and it really should just be left for the winter. The protection is terrible, and the top of the climb is loose dirt and rock. Like Lee mentions do not do this while people are below because you will knock a ton of stuff down because the top is all dirt and grape sized rock.

The opening section can be fun but the top destroys and chance for this to be a quality route. Sep 6, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Hahaha... Nov 29, 2007
Ladd    
Wow. Nov 29, 2007