Description

The Buffalo Pit has undergone a huge transformation in the last couple of seasons (2016/2017) mostly thanks to the Rumney Climbers Association purchase of the "Final Frontier" land which included the Buffalo Pit. Of course Team Tough was behind the face-lift for the crag, those guys can transform a pile of moss and lichen in to a world class crag with amazing efficiency.

Currently there are routes from 5.4-5.13 and work on the crag is ongoing. Obviously the cliff is fast becoming popular aided by the convenience the new parking lot that went in in November 2017 that drops you 1 minute from the cliff base. 

Getting There

Drive past the main parking lots and continue for about a mile. The parking area will be on your right. The Buffalo Pit can be seen up the hill away from the road and there is a trail on the right hand side of the lot when facing away from the road. About 1 minute up the trail to the cliff.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buffalo Pit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Hobo Nickel
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Lonesome Buffalo
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Sodbuster
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 27
Stone Worms
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Barefoot
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Buffalo Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Out Of Order
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 40
Sunnyside Up
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Itchy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
The Perfect Egg Drop
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
Another Roadside Distraction
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Tatanka
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Buffalo Soldier
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Buffalo Hunter
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Nexus
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hobo Nickel
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lonesome Buffalo
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sodbuster
 43
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Worms
 27
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Barefoot
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Buffalo Crack
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Out Of Order
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sunnyside Up
 40
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Itchy
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Perfect Egg Drop
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Another Roadside Distraction
 31
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tatanka
 34
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Buffalo Soldier
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Buffalo Hunter
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Nexus
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Buffalo Pit »

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
This weekend, I climbed my last two routes at this crag and to be honest, the only one worth going for is the 11d sport route. The 10c would also be good if it was not from the vegetated ramps on the approaches or the lack of anchor to lower down. We rappelled from a dead tree. Sketchy!!!
Unless a few braves gives this crag a lot, a lot and a lot of love, it could be used as a garden to grow plants and trees... Aug 11, 2014
Brentheden Bourassa
Waterville Valley, NH
Brentheden Bourassa   Waterville Valley, NH
Just climbed here today and this place is amazing! Hands down the best feeling rock I've ever climbed at Rumney. Way more routes than listed here. Hopefully they made it in the new guide Jul 15, 2017
S. Neoh  
What is the current parking situation at BP? Conservatively, how many cars does the parking lot hold? Thanks! Sep 4, 2017
Gini Kramer
North Haven, CT
Gini Kramer   North Haven, CT
As of May 9, the new parking lot is in good shape. May 9, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There are no bathrooms yet at the new lot, so please try to use a restroom elsewhere before you get there. Also, people have caught on to the new lot so on nice days it is filling up. Remember to try to override personal space issues and pull right up closely to other cars to fit more in. May 10, 2018