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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 734 ft
GPS: 43.804, -71.85 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,830 total, 70/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 29, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

The buffalo pit has undergone a huge transformation in the last couple of seasons (2016/2017) mostly thanks to the Rumney Climbers Association purchase of the "Final Frontier" land which included the Buffalo Pit. Of course Team Tough was behind the face-lift for the crag, those guys can transform a pile of moss and lichen in to a world class crag with amazing efficiency.

Currently there are routes from 5.5-5.12 and perhaps some projects that will be even harder. These new routes will eventually be added here and will be included in the 2017 guidebook. At present the new parking area is being constructed so we are holding off on detailing everything so to avoid parking problems.

If you do venture over to the Pit please be sure to park well off of the road and out of the way of the folks working on the parking lot.

Getting There

Drive past the main parking lots and continue for about a mile. There is currently a clearing where a good sized parking lot is being constructed. The Buffalo Pit can be seen up the hill away from the road and there is a trail on the right hand side of the lot when facing away from the road. About 1 minute up the trail to the cliff.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buffalo Pit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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S. Neoh  
What is the current parking situation at BP? Conservatively, how many cars does the parking lot hold? Thanks! Sep 4, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
IDK, once the book is in people's hands its all over anyway haha. Folks should just know that it is very important to keep well off the road if you head out there. Also stay out of the lot and out of the way if there is work being done on the parking lot project. I will hold off on adding descriptions at least until the book drops. Jul 17, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Probably good to wait a little more until construction is done, or it could be a mess, especially with the rain. Feel free to delete my comments. Jul 17, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
My understanding is that the pit and Corral areas had not been added/updated so to avoid too much attention as we got the parking area worked out. I am happy to write up some of the new stuff if it's time. Mark? Ward? we still waiting?

Ps. I Just added a new 5.10 today that wont make it in to the book :X Jul 17, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The Pit has had some recent development and fixing up, but also the Corral, the area Matt Wallace mention in his earlier comment, has been developed more. I think that must have been where you were. The information is not here yet, but Ward Smith's latest guide (just out) has it. The parking area is being developed so there is little parking atm. Please do not pile up along the road in the mean time. Jul 17, 2017
Brentheden Bourassa
Waterville Valley, NH
Brentheden Bourassa   Waterville Valley, NH
Just climbed here today and this place is amazing! Hands down the best feeling rock I've ever climbed at Rumney. Way more routes than listed here. Hopefully they made it in the new guide Jul 15, 2017
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Barefoot (5.10 face right of the corner on Rainy Day)... awaiting official MP documentation. :) Dec 16, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
This weekend, I climbed my last two routes at this crag and to be honest, the only one worth going for is the 11d sport route. The 10c would also be good if it was not from the vegetated ramps on the approaches or the lack of anchor to lower down. We rappelled from a dead tree. Sketchy!!!
Unless a few braves gives this crag a lot, a lot and a lot of love, it could be used as a garden to grow plants and trees... Aug 11, 2014
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
I've seen that route too, all lonely out there.... it'd not the 11d (not in the book at all), looks more like 5.9 or 5.10. Aug 11, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
According to the guidebook, this would be the only sport route at 5.11d. Aug 11, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I hiked out to here today to look around.

When looking up from the road the is a "cove" of rock to the right of the main section of Buffalo Pit. It isn't a tall area but there is a two bolt sport climb on the left side of the cove and potential slab climbs on the right side. Does anyone know about this sport route? It climbs a blunt arete and maybe 25 feet tall, maybe a little shorter... Jul 15, 2010

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