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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barefoot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Hunter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Worms S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vault 713 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vulture Breath S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Lee Hansche 7/17/17
Page Views: 625 total · 48/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

From the tree on the ledge scramble up to make the first clip. find a right hand fingerlock and bust left in to a series of horizontal edges and slots. The rock is amazingly solid but equally slippery unless you hit it just right. Precision footwork will pay off and keep it feeling 5.10. Fail to figure out the feet and you will be working much harder. This bit of technical face climbing leads to a classic slopey mantle and a scamper up easier rock to the anchor.

I personally LOVE this one. Give it a try and tell me what you think.

Location

Essentially a second pitch to Nicely Stacked (5.7 trad) but the way we have been doing it is to climb the long 5.8 (Lonesome Buffalo) and lower down toward climbers left on to the ledge. Out of Order parallels the upper half of Lonesome so you will easily find it. Anchor to a large tree and have your second follow Lonesome and lower down to meet you on the ledge.
Well worth the logistics.

Protection

5 bolts to ram horn (pig tail) anchors

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.10c
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.10c
Great rock and great movement. I wish it could have been longer, but it's well worth going up to do. It looked like you could do the first pitch of Nicely Stacked and this route in one pitch as long as you stay to the right of the trees when you gain the ledge. Oct 13, 2017
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.10c
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.10c
Sweet little hidden gem! Lee's description is spot on. I'm a sucker for climbing thin edges and loved the hand/foot rockover/mantle. The feel good finish had me wondering how such perfect rock exited to the anchors. Cool climb not to be missed. Apr 25, 2018
M Sprague
New England
  5.10b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10b
9 bolts and anchor (sling on the 4th bolt) if you start from the ground as one pitch using the newly bolted beginning of Stone Worms. Really nice rock, especially the polished basketball slopers Jun 4, 2018
Michael Lincoln
Fairhaven
Michael Lincoln   Fairhaven
Awesome route! Loved the slab crux and mantle finish. Jun 23, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
The rounded slopey stuff is not easy. Tenuous at times. Aug 24, 2018

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