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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barefoot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Hunter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Worms S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vault 713 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vulture Breath S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 7/26/17
Page Views: 488 total · 37/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun boulder problem of a route. There is a lot of climbing packed in to a short piece of rock. Very technical and very powerful If I was bouldering it I would call it a V7 but for some reason it didn't seem to warrant the 5.13 grade. I will be interested to see what other people make of the climb and its difficulty. I'm not going to spray move by move here yet but I will say I started it with a jump (crux).

Location

In the cave near the middle of the cliff. This line climbs a sloping arĂȘte starting standing on a small boulder.

Protection

3 bolts to Ram horn (pig tail) anchors.
There is also a directional/belay bolt about 8 feet to the left of the route to keep things running smoothly.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Lee, when you say you started with a jump, does that refer to getting established on the rock (basically jumping from the ground) or the first move is a jump? Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Your feet are on a small boulder, right hand on the arĂȘte left on a tiny edge and you jump to the crimpy left hand sidepull. Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
So not like "Jump Dean Jump" style running start. Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
By popular request I have added a directional bolt well off to the left of the climb to make it more comfy for belayers and climbers. its about 8 feet to the left just above the roof. Jun 7, 2018

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