Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 7/26/17
Page Views: 631 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun boulder problem of a route. There is a lot of climbing packed in to a short piece of rock. Very technical and very powerful If I was bouldering it I would call it a V7 but for some reason it didn't seem to warrant the 5.13 grade. I will be interested to see what other people make of the climb and its difficulty. I'm not going to spray move by move here yet but I will say I started it with a jump (crux).

Location

In the cave near the middle of the cliff. This line climbs a sloping arĂȘte starting standing on a small boulder.

Protection

3 bolts to Ram horn (pig tail) anchors.
There is also a directional/belay bolt about 8 feet to the left of the route to keep things running smoothly.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Lee, when you say you started with a jump, does that refer to getting established on the rock (basically jumping from the ground) or the first move is a jump? Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
Your feet are on a small boulder, right hand on the arĂȘte left on a tiny edge and you jump to the crimpy left hand sidepull. Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
So not like "Jump Dean Jump" style running start. Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
By popular request I have added a directional bolt well off to the left of the climb to make it more comfy for belayers and climbers. its about 8 feet to the left just above the roof. Jun 7, 2018