Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Jim shimberg 1999
Page Views: 788 total, 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Once sadly overlooked this route will now see the attention it deserves. This was the original route at the Pit but it has seen a facelift to bring it up to the quality of the routes newly developed around it. So it was scrubbed, re-bolted and dangerous loose rocks were removed.

Start below a roof that forms a hanging corner. climb around the roof in to the corner with difficulty to gain a nice rest. Once you are well rested climb out left on to a steep slab where many of the holds seem to face the wrong direction. ticktack your way up the face and win your prize.

Location

Middle left area of the cliff. The only line with bolts (edit - not anymore - The second line with bolts from the left atm.)

Protection

Cleaned and rebolted with stainless glue-ins 2016. The anchors have drop-in ramshorns. The grade may be closer to the 12a range now.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I have updated the description to account for the upgrade due to removal of dangerous rocks and the thorough cleaning/retro-bolting. Aug 24, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
awww sorry to hear you missed the end of BC i remember really liking that part. Aug 13, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
The only reason I gave just one star to Buffalo Crack is because of the unpleasant acces via either of the 5.7 (too much vegetation). Other than this, really cool climb. Just too short.
Good idea to access it via Buffalo Soldier.
Lee, I think my partner screwed up doing the finish of BC.
After the offwidth rest, he got to a grassy ramp on the right and followed it for about 40 feet to a big dead tree. He must have missed the finish.
Damn! I'll have to go back... Aug 13, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Got around to doing this one yesterday and collecting the draws I left up when I cleaned it...
I didn't see the piton either and I had climbed past it until I was about to try topping out and my foot bumped it... I reached down to clip it and made the last move...
Happy to say I've climbed all the routes at the cliff now :)
This one is actually really nice and so is buffalo crack in my opinion... You could do them both in a nice 2 pitch line... Aug 13, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks for the beta :) Jul 25, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
No need to bring gear Lee. Everything you need is there. The only reason I did the run out from your locking carabiner to the top is that I was spooked of falling there. I hate slab falls but it is even worst when there is a roof just below... After I clipped the anchor, I cleaned the plateau a bit on which you have to mantel. I did the best I could with my hands. I also removed a lot of big lichen or mushroom flaky stuff that was hiding a few key holds including the piton that I didn't see on my send. That's all you need to clip just to give you enough confidence to top out. Don't launch to the shelf from too low. It is kind of slabby but if you go high enough on your feet, you will see two spots for your hands that is just what you need to exit. The anchor will be right there. Cool little one!!! Jul 24, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
NICE! i still havent gotten out to do it and get my draws off of it) since i cleaned it. I'll have to do that soon... i have only been on the bottom of the route, should i bring gear for the upper secton, i couldnt see where the anchor was. Jul 23, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
Thanks Lee for cleaning Buffalo Soldiers. That allowed me to send it.
I almost poo my pants doing the top out. I never saw the old pin. Man I didn't want to fall...
Too bad this route is stuck in a jungle.
It is not worth going to this crag in its current condition.
I am not a trad climber but I have lots of friends that are trad climbers and none of them will trad climb in Rumney. Fragile rock, very short lines, lichen, moss, vegetation...
Thanks to Mark Sprague for bolting Misdemeanor at Meadows.
So many other routes would get a second life if they were bolted because there would be traffic and the routes would stay clean. It would also help the trad climbers.
As for the purists (which I respect a lot) who don't want to see bolts, well there is the Gunks and so many other destination with great trad climbing. Jul 23, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Naw. We've been talking about the rock left of Bbbuttress for years now. :) I'm just happy to see anyone put in the effort to clean it up. Jul 11, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Are you making jibes at Lee's cleaning standards? ;) Jul 10, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Wait long enough and Chris will turn them into classics :D (California Chrome) Jul 10, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah, it needs a good bit of work but i have a few lines i've been looking at for years up there. Jul 9, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Nice, Lee! I hiked down that way about a month ago, scoping possible trail routes from the Pit to the NWT for if the FS buys this area and was thinking the crag could really use a good trim and cleaning. There are some really interesting features there. I thought that Rainy Day route looked well worth a scrub. Jul 8, 2014