Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS: 43.80386, -71.84992
FA: Robby Etringer, Nov. 2022
Page Views: 617 total · 13/month
Shared By: Will Kilgore on Nov 9, 2022
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

While it may be a bit different from your typical Rumney sport climbing, this boulder start to the classic Nexus (13a) provides a bit longer of a route for those willing to bring some crash pads to the crag. This route starts on the perfectly shaped sloper at the edge of the roof under Stone Worms, 5.9-, before following decent crimps to the inside edge of the cave. Traversing left, one can find a few rest positions before reaching the large ledge of Nexus. For the FA, a pre-clipped rope with a locker was left for after the boulder start.

Note: We weren't sure if this needed its own page, but it does add a considerable amount of climbing, pump, and another distinct crux (~V6) to the route.

Location Suggest change

In the cave on the left side of Buffalo pit. Start under Stone worms before punching in and traversing left to the starting ledge of Nexus.

Protection Suggest change

1-2 pads, belayed/spotter

Photos

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