Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: (Corner)Ron Renolds (complete) Tom Bowker and Alan Hunter 1984
Page Views: 2,169 total · 13/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

When this cliff was overgrown and under appreciated this line was one of the most obvious climbs. These days with all the well travelled sport climbs here this one has become almost unnoticed. If you are looking to work on your trad game at Rumney a lap on this is a reasonably well protected and quite fun option.

Just up hill to the right of Lonesome Buffalo look for a perfect 90 degree corner. Climb the corner, face climbing stemming and laying it back to get to a small roof. Place good gear and pull around the roof. The original route moved up and right on less classic and more bushy rock. These days clipping the lower anchors or moving left up the slabs to gain the anchors of Lonesome buffalo is your best bet. The gear on the slab is a bit less plentiful but with care it’s ample.

Location Suggest change

Right end of the cliff, look for the pretty corner.

Protection Suggest change

Regular rack. Anchors have been installed just above the corner for convenience. You may angle up left to the top of Lonesome Buffalo or do it oldschool style up and right on bushy terrain.