Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 9/16
Page Views: 398 total · 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

A fun top rope that would have been a squeeze job if bolted.

Staying to the right of Sunnyside, climb a steep bulge on fairly decent holds but you have to power up a bit. You will get to the same ledge as Sunnyside and continue to the top as you please.

Location

Between Sunnyside Up and Mr. Buffoolo To You.

Protection

Top Rope

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.10d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10d
I first did this as a highball boulder problem, down climbing Mr. Buffoolo once I got to a good stance above the bulge and could move right, but it's a straight shot TR from the Buffoolo anchors. Aug 24, 2017
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Got on this today, great moves, the crux for me was using the oddly-angled holds on the top of the bulge to get onto the ledge. Jun 2, 2018
Ming
 
Ming  
 
Hrm missed the crimp from the pic. Def. a 11 for short people!!! Reachy as heck to the jug! Aug 13, 2018
M Sprague
New England
  5.10d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10d
Ming, I am on the short side of 5.8 and it is a little reachy for me, so yes, probably harder if shorter. I don't usually use the big hold out left that Lee is hanging on, but go from the edge above his knee high up to the sidepull in the corner with my left, work up on foot smears (backstep right) and do a long crossover to the crack. It is all a little barndoory. Aug 13, 2018