Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Lee hansche 6/18/19
Page Views: 741 total · 40/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 7, 2019
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A wild second pitch route that is situated roughly above Another Roadside Distraction. The main event of the route climbs out the horizontal roof about 100 feet off the deck! Expect a variety of interesting and engaging movement that is physically and mentally challenging at times.

Start at the two bolt anchor on the comfortable ledge above "Roadside", Buffalo Crack heads up and right from here. This route follows the bolt line straight up above the anchor and through the imposing roof. Take a step or two to the right and crimp and perhaps throw in a handjam to get to the next comfortable stance. Take a step to the left below the small roof to a chunky left leaning corner. Use the corner to access the horizontal crack following it to the right. Good holds below the crux roof let you catch your breath before wrestling your way to the anchors. I won't spoil all of your fun but I will mention the use of crimps, jams, a kneebar, a huge cross and scrunchy feet when I climbed it. I'm sure there are other solutions I hope the way you do it is fun!

Originally a Mark Sprague project. He had other things to work on so he handed it off to me. Always one to show respect to such a prolific developer I paid homage to him with the route name. Thanks mark! Another good find!

Location

Starts from the anchor on the ledge above Another Roadside Distraction. Easily accessed by starting up Stone Worms and after the 4th bolt traversing left on the comfortable ledge. Carefully scramble over boulders and look for the anchor at head height above a comfortable stance. With a little gear you can also approach via a variation of Vulture Breath for a 2 pitch route.

It's an easy rappel off the ledge anchor to get back down.

Protection

6 bolts to pig tail anchors. Bolts are spaced a bit close to protect from ledge falls. The first bolt is low so one can reach it off of the ledge and save your ankles I recommend clipping it with a carabiner and back cleaning it after the second is clipped.  Bring some longer draws too, especially for the 6th bolt.

Photos