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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barefoot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Lee Hansche/Ward Smith 9/16
Page Views: 236 total · 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Edit]

I've been doing this one regularly recently as I've been spending a lot of time at the pit and the more I climb this one the more I like it. There is a frustrating lack of feet where you want them at first but over time the beta becomes more clear.

Climb a steep start through lay backs and pinches trying to keep your feet on. Get a good shake out on a jug or two and then make sense of a tricky mantle to a ledge. You will be rewarded by nice 5.8 climbing to the top. The anchors are clipped from a very roomy ledge.

Funny Story: Over a decade ago I led this route on trad gear thinking it was the route Barefoot. Looking back I don't know how I managed to dig through the lichen and make it up this thing. It's still hard for me now and it's beautifully clean. Perhaps the "no fall zone" mindset helped. Either way I'm happy Ward cleaned it and in it's current state he deserves full credit for the climb.

Location [Edit]

Second bolted route from the right end of the cliff.

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts to pig tail anchors


Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Great story Lee, I thought this was Barefoot as well until I found it up and right off the ledge, complete with the original pin. Aug 24, 2017

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