Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Lee Hansche/Ward Smith 9/16
Page Views: 1,305 total · 35/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I've been doing this one regularly recently as I've been spending a lot of time at the pit and the more I climb this one the more I like it. There is a frustrating lack of feet where you want them at first but over time the beta becomes more clear.

Climb a steep start through lay backs and pinches trying to keep your feet on. Get a good shake out on a jug or two and then make sense of a tricky mantle to a ledge. You will be rewarded by nice 5.8 climbing to the top. The anchors are clipped from a very roomy ledge.

Funny Story: Over a decade ago I led this route on trad gear thinking it was the route Barefoot. Looking back I don't know how I managed to dig through the lichen and make it up this thing. It's still hard for me now and it's beautifully clean. Perhaps the "no fall zone" mindset helped. Either way I'm happy Ward cleaned it and in it's current state he deserves full credit for the climb.

Location

Second bolted route from the right end of the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to pig tail anchors

Photos