Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Lee Hansche/Ward Smith 9/16
Page Views: 611 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

I've been doing this one regularly recently as I've been spending a lot of time at the pit and the more I climb this one the more I like it. There is a frustrating lack of feet where you want them at first but over time the beta becomes more clear.

Climb a steep start through lay backs and pinches trying to keep your feet on. Get a good shake out on a jug or two and then make sense of a tricky mantle to a ledge. You will be rewarded by nice 5.8 climbing to the top. The anchors are clipped from a very roomy ledge.

Funny Story: Over a decade ago I led this route on trad gear thinking it was the route Barefoot. Looking back I don't know how I managed to dig through the lichen and make it up this thing. It's still hard for me now and it's beautifully clean. Perhaps the "no fall zone" mindset helped. Either way I'm happy Ward cleaned it and in it's current state he deserves full credit for the climb.

Location

Second bolted route from the right end of the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to pig tail anchors

Photos

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Great story Lee, I thought this was Barefoot as well until I found it up and right off the ledge, complete with the original pin. Aug 24, 2017
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Really fun moves that feel like they were pulled right from a gym. Lot's of fun! Jun 2, 2018
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Finally got this clean yesterday. Ended up skipping the third bolt since I still don't know how to clip it without painfully jamming my hand in the horizontal crack beneath it on the ledge. Jul 22, 2018
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Got a fun little video of this climb with my friend's helmet cam: youtube.com/watch?v=5GMty53… Jul 27, 2018