Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,271 total · 63/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

53 Opinions

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This is a really fun, long adventure over slabs and cracks and in to the unknown.

There are a couple of tricky spots but for the most part it is very easy climbing that is just plain pleasant. The hardest moves for sure are about 15-20 feet off the ground while your belayer can still see you well. There is a very nice view from a comfortable perch at the anchor.

This could be a great practice trad route. Place gear in the abundant cracks and clip bolts when you want them.


To the right of the obvious cave look for a clean swath of rock with cracks in it. You can't see the full length of the route from the ground.


9 Bolts to Pigtail anchor


Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
On the ledge with the birch trees, in a bowl where the lichen is thick to the left of the crack, I found some excellent cracks, very solid. This may add a + to the 8, but well worth it. I'll try to get back there soon and clean up where I am talking about.

There are many ways to climb this route if you use your imagination! Sep 16, 2017
Mark NH
Mark NH   03053
Are you talking about wanting to squeeze in a route or just some couple move variation? There was some chalk out left in the lichen between the second and third bolts today. Is that where you're describing (as that's the birch tree ledge)? If you're wanting to clean that lichen for a couple move variation I'd just leave things be. Plus the existing bolts would then be way to the right. If you're putting up a completely separate route go for it! Sep 18, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I think he was saying there were a few solutions to the existing route. Which is true, I've done it with a few different sets of beta. Sep 19, 2017
Calvin Coffin
Concord, MA
Calvin Coffin   Concord, MA
Better as a trad lead, imo Mar 27, 2018
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Felt a bit hard, but I think I was left when I should have been right, and right when I should have been left. Lot's of great climbing though. Jun 2, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
A great route. Beautiful situation close to the arete. Continuous vertical finger cracks. Variety as you go. Terrific. Aug 24, 2018