Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ted Hammond, Tom Armstong and Tom Bowker 11/84|
|Page Views:||798 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Apr 26, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionSteep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. Yeah this crag in it's current condition is a bomb for the most part but This route is well worth the side trip if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.
Pitch 1: Whatever you want to get to the ledge haha. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack.
Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move left to a stance and easily on to the top.