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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ted Hammond, Tom Armstong and Tom Bowker 11/84
Page Views: 798 total · 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Steep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. Yeah this crag in it's current condition is a bomb for the most part but This route is well worth the side trip if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.

Pitch 1: Whatever you want to get to the ledge haha. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack.

Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move left to a stance and easily on to the top.

Location

In the middle of the crag starting from the mid-way ledge. Look for a pretty obvious crack. You get there by doing a short pitch to the ledge and traversing the to the base of the climb.

Protection

One pin and a regular rack will get you by just fine. There is a new bolted anchor (c2016)

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Awesome route and very well worth the approach if you love trad and climb the grade. Oct 13, 2017
woohoo ha this humbled me. Great climb great gear but it will make you work. Aug 27, 2017