Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ted Hammond, Tom Armstong and Tom Bowker 11/84
Page Views: 2,259 total · 14/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Steep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. This route is well worth the funky access if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.

Pitch 1: Variable. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack. Build an anchor. 

Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move out left to a stance and up to a bolted anchor with ramhorns.

Location Suggest change

In the middle of the crag starting from the mid-way ledge. Essentially right above Roadside Distraction. You can do it as a second pitch to Roadside or you can get there by doing the first pitch of Nicely stacked or the first few bolts of Stone Worm then traversing left to build an anchor at the base of the crack.

Protection Suggest change

One pin and a regular rack will get you by just fine. There is a new bolted top anchor with ramhorns (c2016) and you can use the bolted anchor  of Mark My Words just left of the start for belaying.