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Routes in Buffalo Pit
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Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Barefoot T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buffalo Hunter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fresh Fish S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hobo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kevin Donovan Appreciation Route (Nexus extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mark My Words S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rainy Day T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sodbuster S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Something Fishy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stone Worms S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tatanka S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ted Hammond, Tom Armstong and Tom Bowker 11/84 |
| Page Views: | 2,259 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Apr 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Steep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. This route is well worth the funky access if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.
Pitch 1: Variable. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack. Build an anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move out left to a stance and up to a bolted anchor with ramhorns.
Pitch 1: Variable. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack. Build an anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move out left to a stance and up to a bolted anchor with ramhorns.
Location
In the middle of the crag starting from the mid-way ledge. Essentially right above Roadside Distraction. You can do it as a second pitch to Roadside or you can get there by doing the first pitch of Nicely stacked or the first few bolts of Stone Worm then traversing left to build an anchor at the base of the crack.
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