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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barefoot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Hunter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hobo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Worms S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vault 713 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vulture Breath S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ted Hammond, Tom Armstong and Tom Bowker 11/84
Page Views: 984 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Steep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. This route is well worth the funky access if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.

Pitch 1: Variable. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack. Build an anchor. 

Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move out left to a stance and up to a bolted anchor with ramhorns.

Location

In the middle of the crag starting from the mid-way ledge. Essentially right above Roadside Distraction. You can do it as a second pitch to Roadside or you can get there by doing the first pitch of Nicely stacked or the first few bolts of Stone Worm then traversing left to build an anchor at the base of the crack.

Protection

One pin and a regular rack will get you by just fine. There is a new bolted top anchor with ramhorns (c2016)

Photos

woohoo ha this humbled me. Great climb great gear but it will make you work. Aug 27, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Awesome route and very well worth the approach if you love trad and climb the grade. Oct 13, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
10c Hahaha. If you get on this before they are cleaned up, near the top, before you move out left and up to the anchors, watch out for loose blocks on your right (and don't put gear in them!) Jun 12, 2018

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