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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barefoot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Hunter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Worms S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tom Bowker 11/85
Page Views: 369 total · 55/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 26, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A short interesting route on good quality rock. Start on good holds, easier climbing up to the piton. Clip it and wonder if its all the way rusted through haha. move up through an undercling and in to some finger cracks. The gear is a little bit strenuous to place (or reachy if you've got the reach). Crux out and gain the easier finish in a wider crack to the nice new anchor.

Interestingly I thought I had led this well over a decade ago but it turns out I had led the route that is now the sport route Sunny Side Up. Similar in grade but I was wondering why I never found the piton haha. So when Chris Smith showed me his brother's new route I said "isn't that Barefoot?" and he pointed me in the right direction... Climbing is fun.

Location

On the right side of The Pit there is a raised ledge (there is some development happening here currently). The ledge is parallel to the anchors of Mr. Buffoolo to you 5.4. Once on that ledge look for a rusty pin about 10-15 ft up... That's your route. 

Protection

I clipped the pin with a draw and placed a blue TCU (could use a nut instead).

There are other placements available so if you want more, bring a regular rack.

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Eli .
GMC3500
Eli .   GMC3500
is it relatively clean or a classic rumney trad junkshow? Apr 29, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10b
It's clean. But for real... There are so many nice clean trad routes at rumney. See my map of 9 reasons to bring a rackbto rumney ;) Apr 29, 2018
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
There are two finishes; straight up, and approach the anchors from the right, or move left low down and up the left crack and clip anchors reaching out right (slightly pumpier) The original line continued to the top of the cliff up much easier rock.
You can get to the anchor without leading it easily while lowering from one of the new sport routes to the right May 1, 2018
Calvin Coffin
Concord, MA
 
Calvin Coffin   Concord, MA
 
It's a good one. Do we have names for the two freshies to the right? May 6, 2018
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10b
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10b
It would be four stars if it was longer. May 14, 2018
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Chris's new sport routes to the right are "Itchy" and Scratchy" (The left is "Itchy" I think) Grades are maybe 9 on the right and easy to mid 10 on the left. Chris will probably write them up soon. May 15, 2018
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a/b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a/b
Very good climbing that is just over too quickly. Jun 12, 2018

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