Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tom Bowker 11/85
Page Views: 515 total · 40/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 26, 2018
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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A short interesting route on good quality rock. Start on good holds, easier climbing up to the piton. Clip it and wonder if its all the way rusted through haha. move up through an undercling and in to some finger cracks. The gear is a little bit strenuous to place (or reachy if you've got the reach). Crux out and gain the easier finish in a wider crack to the nice new anchor.

Interestingly I thought I had led this well over a decade ago but it turns out I had led the route that is now the sport route Sunny Side Up. Similar in grade but I was wondering why I never found the piton haha. So when Chris Smith showed me his brother's new route I said "isn't that Barefoot?" and he pointed me in the right direction... Climbing is fun.


On the right side of The Pit there is a raised ledge (there is some development happening here currently). The ledge is parallel to the anchors of Mr. Buffoolo to you 5.4. Once on that ledge look for a rusty pin about 10-15 ft up... That's your route. 


I clipped the pin with a draw and placed a blue TCU (could use a nut instead).

There are other placements available so if you want more, bring a regular rack.


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is it relatively clean or a classic rumney trad junkshow? Apr 29, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
It's clean. But for real... There are so many nice clean trad routes at rumney. See my map of 9 reasons to bring a rackbto rumney ;) Apr 29, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There are two finishes; straight up, and approach the anchors from the right, or move left low down and up the left crack and clip anchors reaching out right (slightly pumpier) The original line continued to the top of the cliff up much easier rock.
You can get to the anchor without leading it easily while lowering from one of the new sport routes to the right May 1, 2018
Calvin Coffin
Concord, MA
Calvin Coffin   Concord, MA
It's a good one. Do we have names for the two freshies to the right? May 6, 2018
James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO
James Schroeder   Fort Collins, CO  
It would be four stars if it was longer. May 14, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Chris's new sport routes to the right are "Itchy" and Scratchy" (The left is "Itchy" I think) Grades are maybe 9 on the right and easy to mid 10 on the left. Chris will probably write them up soon. May 15, 2018
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Very good climbing that is just over too quickly. Jun 12, 2018