Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Leslie & Chris Smith, Dave Quinn 5/2018
Page Views: 572 total · 88/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Stick clip the first bolt and stepping off the block, carefully pull onto the big hollow flake and into the left facing corner as for Nicely (Un)Stacked, then immediately angle left following bolts (sling on 4th or 5th) on to a leafy ledge. Hike back to the upper wall and continue up the left bolted line, starting up a left facing corner with laybacks and stems and cool water sculpted holds.
The crux around the last bolt has elicited grades of 5.7 to 10- (Hint - the "best" holds may not be the biggest or most incut)

The first 4 bolts can also be used to start Out of Order, which moves up right off the ledge.

Location

Walk to the right until you squeeze between a big oak tree and a low, jump start, bolted arete and there is a low roof/cave at the base, with a jumble of blocks in front. The route starts off the square cut block.

Protection

9 SS glue-in bolts and anchors with ramhorns. A shoulder length sling on the 4th bolt recommended (especially if using the start to get on Out of Order)

Photos

Josie Benson
Tiverton, RI
  5.9-
Josie Benson   Tiverton, RI
  5.9-
Fun climb with thoughtful movement and interesting holds. Would rate 5.9- or 5.8+. I'd give it another star if it wasn't broken up by the ledge in the middle. Jun 12, 2018
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.9
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.9
Fun easy start, beautiful thought provoking climb up top. Good footwork is a must! Jun 24, 2018