Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 391 total · 54/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Jun 17, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Fun, pumpy moves to a "classic Rumney" finish!

Location

Start 10' feet right of "White Buff Fellow", at the left end of the steep wall..
From the top of a small boulder, step up and onto a blunt point ledge.
Climb up and left, past a few bolts to gain a small ledge, then straight up into the headwall above.
The Goal: Gain the jug to clip the anchor!
The Puzzle: Finding the jug and how to use it! ;-)
 

Protection

Glue Ins

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a/b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a/b
Another fun climb at The Pit! I found it to be in the lower 5.12 range and it would absolutely be harder if you are on the shorter side. I think the slash grade works well. It was just a hair harder than White Buff Fellow to the left.

The bottom bulge is powerful with no great holds. I found myself climbing past bolts and clipping at the hip so not to add rope to the potential fall (might be better with some work but I was going for the on-sight so it's hard to figure the micro-beta). I got a sit down rest (with effort) after the bottom crux then tackled the upper section which is pretty easy to sequence until the lip encounter where you might expect the route to be called "Buffalo Punter" hahaha. Jul 8, 2018