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Routes in Buffalo Pit

Another Roadside Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barefoot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buffalo Chips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Buffalo Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buffalo Hunter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Innocent Prairie Dog S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Itchy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesome Buffalo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nicely Stacked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out Of Order S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psych Ward S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rainy Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scratchy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sodbuster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Fishy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Worms S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sunnyside Up S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tatanka S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vault 713 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vulture Breath S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Buff Fellow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 356 total · 83/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Jun 17, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Fun, pumpy moves to a "classic Rumney" finish!

Location

Start 10' feet right of "White Buff Fellow", at the left end of the steep wall..
From the top of a small boulder, step up and onto a blunt point ledge.
Climb up and left, past a few bolts to gain a small ledge, then straight up into the headwall above.
The Goal: Gain the jug to clip the anchor!
The Puzzle: Finding the jug and how to use it! ;-)
 

Protection

Glue Ins

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a/b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a/b
Another fun climb at The Pit! I found it to be in the lower 5.12 range and it would absolutely be harder if you are on the shorter side. I think the slash grade works well. It was just a hair harder than White Buff Fellow to the left.

The bottom bulge is powerful with no great holds. I found myself climbing past bolts and clipping at the hip so not to add rope to the potential fall (might be better with some work but I was going for the on-sight so it's hard to figure the micro-beta). I got a sit down rest (with effort) after the bottom crux then tackled the upper section which is pretty easy to sequence until the lip encounter where you might expect the route to be called "Buffalo Punter" hahaha. Jul 8, 2018

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