Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague, Chris Smith
Page Views: 513 total · 43/month
Shared By: amy colburn on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Rock up onto the good foothold about eight feet left of the slabby arete of Lonesome Buffalo. Follow cracks up and left to the right side of the small corner formed by a big block. Go up here and head back right and up, staying left of Lonesome Buffalo. Climb the scoopy corner on the left side of the upper arete then traverse left and up to the anchors (easiest to  traverse all the way until under the Out of Order anchors then angle back right).

Location

see beta picture

Protection

A single set of cams to #3 is fine. There are many options to sew this up as much as you want. Make sure to place a piece in the horizontal on the final headwall to protect the move to the anchors.

Anchors are SS glue-ins with ramhorns  and are about 6' right of those for Out of Order. If you don't have gear, you can also get to them easily for a TR after climbing Lonesome Buffalo as you almost drop over them when lowering from the Lonesome anchors.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.7+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.7+
Anchors are about 6' right of those for Out of Order. If you don't have gear, you can also get to them easily after climbing Lonesome Buffalo as you almost drop over them when lowering from the Lonesome anchors. I thought the route flows really nicely, 21/2 stars.
Make sure you put plenty of gear in. It is not a sign of skill to needlessly run it out. Jun 4, 2018