Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 6/1/18
Page Views: 749 total · 63/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 1, 2018
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Over a decade ago when there was only one sport climb at the pit and it was all over grown I walked the cliff line and immediately fell in love with this feature. When the RCA secured the land I went there right away to get after this thing and found Ward had put an anchor above the climb. I respectfully backed down and put up some other stuff but kept my eye on it until Ward graciously gave me the okay to get after it.

Figuring out the movement was so exciting as every section felt both challenging and playful. Kneebars, partial inversion, crazy core tension and a very interesting exit on to a slab, there is so much substance in this little climb. I had the feeling it would be spectacular and I was not let down. I would give it 4 stars if it was a little longer.

Start on a giant jug, use some trickery to gain a crimp and a decent hold. Kneebar out right (you will likely want a pad). Use the knee bar to get to the roof and in to a pocket, move right under the roof with difficulty and considerable core tension. At the lip you get very good holds and it seems like it souldn't be so hard but gravity is high as you attempt to surmount the slab above and scamper to the anchor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HM85xZ6zGc

Location

In the middle of the Buffalo Pit there is a cave with 2 short routes. This is the left one that climbs the roof. 

Protection

6 bolts to ram horn anchors.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
I scooted up to Rumney before work this morning to drop some bolts in this rig. Mission accomplished. It is ready to roll and sporting some draws because it would be rugged to clean. Enjoy it and tell me what you think! Jun 7, 2018
Looks sick, Lee! Way to go man! Jun 22, 2018
Tried this guy on saturday and wow what a cool little route packed full of cool movements! My legs are too big for the first knee bar.... so need to figure out how to make that tricky beginning happen..... Great route nice work Lee!!! Get on it!! Jun 25, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
youtube.com/watch?v=6HM85xZ…
lil video for anyone interested in getting psyched or snagging some beta. this was my 3rd clean ascent or the route and it gets more fun every time! Sep 18, 2018