Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 9/16
Page Views: 500 total · 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

They say there is trick beta to keep it at 11a. I didn't figure out the trick beta but I did slip a kneepad on and found a way to keep it somewhere in the 5.11 range. It was a little moist when I did it so perhaps next time it will go a little better. Apparently it is always wet in the spring but I'm thinking it will be really sweet in the fall.

Climb the steep wall with some trickery to gain nice fingerlocks in a short crack. As the wall steepens above the holds get better and the trick is just getting to them. Grab a good rest in the corner before pulling one more tricky move and romping to the anchor.

Location

This is the line that tackles the corner just left of the dark cave in the middle of the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to pigtails

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
  5.11a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11a
I named this Vulture Breath because a horrible smell sometimes wafts out of the hand crack next to the anchor. It is from the vulture nest back in the cave on the other side of the anchor boulder. (Try not to disturb them if it is nesting season) There are pigtails so you can drop your rope in quickly and get out of there when you need to clean! Aug 24, 2017
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.11b/c
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.11b/c
pretty heinous for 11a, Felt like a couple of 11c-ish fingercrack moves. Maybe I should be looking outside the crack? Sep 26, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  5.11a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11a
I remember proper sequence being important, and yes look around too. I know even after cleaning and bolting I hadn't noticed a better hold in the crack down low until about the third time climbing it.

2018 edit- Yes, there really is beta that makes it feel 10d, but probably it'll feel 11 to onsight. For some reason few think to use a nice positive hold staring them in the face to get the left hand in the finger lock by the first bolt (hint: it is still good when soaking wet). Next, there is trick beta that locks you in to reach the finger slot right side of the fin, again with the left hand. Sep 26, 2017
I would agree with Mark.... if you are good at finger locking this is 10d/11a.... but definitely tricky to onsight! Jun 25, 2018