Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 33,814 total · 160/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.

If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.

Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.

youtube.com/watch?v=eNCITr_…

Location Suggest change

The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.

Protection Suggest change

9 Bolts

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