Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 24,209 total · 163/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


147 Opinions

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Description

Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.

If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.

Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.

youtube.com/watch?v=eNCITr_…

Location

The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.

Protection

9 Bolts
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The funky bolt with the loose hanger on the bulge has been replaced with a nice fat glue-in recently May 19, 2009
Joe C
Boston, MA
Joe C   Boston, MA
Any good Beta for the Crux? Sep 15, 2010
ZachDKing
Prescott, AZ
ZachDKing   Prescott, AZ
Sorry If I'm behind the times here but,what happend to the ladder? Jan 3, 2012
JohnnyG  
Anybody else a little spooked by the weathered condition of the in situ draws here? May 6, 2012
Keyan P
Seattle, WA
Keyan P   Seattle, WA
Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it... Sep 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Beta spoiler - Is there a particular spot giving you trouble? Others can probably fine tune the beta, but here is what I remember. After clipping the first bolt in the bulge, you are probably going to reach up to a good smallish hold with your right and dyno if you are short, or backstep and reach to the big flat hold with your left. I immediately get a right toe cam in the vertical crack to stabilize and clip. Match and throw your right heal up by your hands. Crank your right into a high cross-over and pop your left up to a pocket. You can then rock over your foot and pop your right fingers into a slot, camming your fingers a little with your thumb down I think. I can't remember the exact next beta, but you need to relax as much as you can and use your balance as you move up a move or two and then step left onto a shelf. I think I remember it being more grunty if you go left early and mantle, less strenuous but a little scary feeling if you go up another move or two first and step over onto the sloping shelf. Sep 12, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
more spoiler- mark's over all spray is good but i'd add a little detail... from the big flat ledge hold where you have hands and heel... up and left there is a down pulling crimp (left hand) and a sidepull (right hand) both are good but small-ish... then up and left to the good pocket (levering a little with a heel-toe is helpful for me on the move to the pocket, heel on ledge and toe against the wall)... from the pocket go straight up to an edge then balance right to the fingerlock hold... as mark said, climbing up the crimp face above then stepping left to the rest ledge is easier than the mantel move (though it is tempting when you are looking at it)... Sep 13, 2012
Keyan P
Seattle, WA
Keyan P   Seattle, WA
spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee. Sep 17, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
Otey shows you how to do techno....
youtube.com/watch?v=eNCITr_… Dec 8, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
Last week I linked this up to the finish of Tsunami. Fun if you have done techno a bunch and want to mix it up.... and I absolutely love the second half of Tsunami... And the first half haha... Apr 17, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Finally sent this one today...the crux didn’t feel too bad with good beta, but be sure not to pump off of the top. The last two or three moves are on slopers and I had to give it 110% to stay on the wall. Phenomenal route. Jul 27, 2018