Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 25,275 total · 163/month
Shared By: J Beta on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


153 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.

If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.

Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.

youtube.com/watch?v=eNCITr_…

Location

The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.

Protection

9 Bolts

Photos