Type: Sport
FA: Joel O'Connell 1988
Page Views: 20,460 total · 125/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Many call this the best 5.10 at Rumney. Wildly-exposed climbing interesting fun moves on good holds; it would be hard to find anything negative to say about this climb (except maybe that it is an exfoliating death trap). Its main feature is a crazy rock fin jutting out 80 feet above the ground. You will learn to love this feature or you will find yourself catching big air.

Starting on less-interesting, moderate moves you will eventually gain a stance looking up at the business, which is the last 50 feet of the climb. Follow the bolts heading up and right on crimps and underclings until you are following the very edge of the rock fin. At this point, you will be forced to smear on small foot holds right on the edge of the flake with nothing under you for what seems to be a long, long way. A few, less-exposed moves on crimps lead to the top and a nice ledge to sit on and take in the view.

Location

From the approach trail after climbing over the big log, head down and left to the low point of the crag, the fin will be above you. Jolt is the far left bolt line at this section starting just above a flat boulder forming a slab at the base of the cliff.

Warning! Avoid hanging out on the flat spot underneath this route and Dolt if you don't really need to. You are in the death zone! The whole fin is exfoliating and rotting and dropping pieces, sometimes big pieces that can easily kill you. In 2013 a big piece of the top fell off that even included the anchors! (since replaced) Warn others and wear a helmet while belaying. Wait your turn well off to the side. Seriously!

Protection

11 bolts + 2 quick clips. 60m rope needed!!!

Photos