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Routes in The Hinterlands

Ale 8 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Back Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Slabbath S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Parts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cold Shoulder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Socks S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Range Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giant Man S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hinterland Highway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hole in the Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Head S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killers Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Know Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Kid Picked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little People, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mean Lean, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moxie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Nicky's Crack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rise Against S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tang S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Who Done It? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Joel O'Connell 1988
Page Views: 17,285 total · 125/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Many call this the best 5.10 at Rumney. Wildly-exposed climbing interesting fun moves on good holds; it would be hard to find anything negative to say about this climb (except maybe that it is an exfoliating death trap). Its main feature is a crazy rock fin jutting out 80 feet above the ground. You will learn to love this feature or you will find yourself catching big air.

Starting on less-interesting, moderate moves you will eventually gain a stance looking up at the business, which is the last 50 feet of the climb. Follow the bolts heading up and right on crimps and underclings until you are following the very edge of the rock fin. At this point, you will be forced to smear on small foot holds right on the edge of the flake with nothing under you for what seems to be a long, long way. A few, less-exposed moves on crimps lead to the top and a nice ledge to sit on and take in the view.

Location

From the approach trail after climbing over the big log, head down and left to the low point of the crag, the fin will be above you. Jolt is the far left bolt line at this section starting just above a flat boulder forming a slab at the base of the cliff.

Warning! Avoid hanging out on the flat spot underneath this route and Dolt if you don't really need to. You are in the death zone! The whole fin is exfoliating and rotting and dropping pieces, sometimes big pieces that can easily kill you. In 2013 a big piece of the top fell off that even included the anchors! (since replaced) Warn others and wear a helmet while belaying. Wait your turn well off to the side. Seriously!

Protection

11 bolts + 2 quick clips. 60m rope needed!!!
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
I would certainly call this a four star route, however the bottom of the route is a little bit dirty with some small but loose rocks on a lower ledge. Be careful pulling your rope as I've pulled down more than I wanted to. Aug 22, 2007
Spiro Spiro  
 
Great route, do it! May 26, 2008
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
I agree with Spiro May 26, 2008
NicoleKurth
Londonderry, NH
  5.10b
NicoleKurth   Londonderry, NH
  5.10b
so the last time i climbed this i needed 12 or so quick draws plus the anchors... did they add bolts? Jun 11, 2008
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.9
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.9
Yeah, beware: I'm sure there are more than 10 bolts. Also, the 'crimps' mentioned in the description are generally more like finger jugs or big, positive crimps. Either way, the holds are very good and forgiving on this climb, so don't let anything scare you off. Do it. Classic. Oct 6, 2008
What did I miss on this route? Seriously, it seemed no harder than 5.8 Oct 23, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the route has seen some broken holds so maybe it got easier... it was always soft for 10b anyway... that would be funny if it went all the way down to 5.8... Oct 23, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I climbed this one on trad gear today just for fun... i recommend you keep clipping those bolts unless you like adventure :) the loose rock seems looser when placing gear behind it haha... Apr 20, 2010
GarrettM
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
fantastic climb. the underling sequence on edge of the fin is unreal. I actually thought dolt was a little bit harder and a little headier. May 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i have to get back on dolt... back when i did it it felt like standard 5.9 climbing... but i remember many loose holds, perhaps some of them fell off making it harder... May 20, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10a
5.9/10a seems about right...though maybe only 10a if you are trying to avoid using hollow (copiously chalked) jugs.

I know I'm gonna take a bath for this, but I gotta say, I thought this route was mediocre at best. It has a few nice moves, and yes, the exposed fin is indeed a cool feature, but I thought the route was greatly marred by a lot of loose rock. In addition, the chossy, dirty ledge took away from the continuity of the climb. I probably wouldn't stop to do the route again. Aug 12, 2010
SmithBro
North Wilmot, New Hampshire
  5.10a
SmithBro   North Wilmot, New Hampshire
  5.10a
Originaly 10d. We might be remembering climbing it with 3 bolts. Felt 10d then, feels 10a now. Some long runners/draws helpfull. Feb 28, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
For repeat ascents, there may be better routes move wise (I actually like climbing Dolt better), but for an onsight the exposed feature is great and shouldn't be missed. Jan 17, 2012
Tyler Smith   NH
Can this be rapped with 60m rope? May 10, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Yes, 60m. Regardless, please knot the ends of the rope to be safe. May 10, 2012
Just a reminder, Jolt has loose rock! A piece broke under foot just under the anchors yesterday and landed near a crowd of people. Always wear a helmet when belaying! Apr 28, 2013
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.10a
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.10a
@JoelGeerling yah? climbed this last month? Jul 7, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Jolt, R.I.P. Gonzo. Game over. Nada. No more Jolt. Sep 15, 2014
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
My brother Chris and I trundled the loose rock off the top of this on Saturday, and added a new protection bolt and anchor. The top is much easier now than what it was, maybe drops the grade a bit. I think it is ready for someone to get on now- but I'd wear a helmet at first! Apr 6, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Good news, Ward. Nice work. Apr 6, 2015
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Did it a couple of weeks ago, the top is definitely easier, but we pulled off a big loose block lower that you used to stand on. Now that spot is a bit harder so thinking still 10a, let me know what you think.

Open for business, but please realize that the whole climb may be classic but it is an exfoliating pile of choss! May 5, 2015
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.10a
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.10a
still feels 10a ward. climbed this last week after hearing from some friends of ours it was open, after they bumped into you and mark up at the hinterlands. I knew the top flake had come down, but that middle section that gains the arete where you cleaned was stiffer. felt fine with a high step and smear.
thank you again for the work put in to restore the route May 5, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Still .10a though heady. Yes, the last 10 to 12 feet is easier than before. And, please, make sure no one hangs out in the "kill zone" directly below the fins; I knocked off a good size mini block today with my right foot when I downclimbed some to catch shade on a very warm day.
Thanks Ward and Chris for all your hard work restoring this route. Aug 16, 2015
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9
The exposure may feel like 5.10a but the moves feel like 5.9. Aug 19, 2016
Graham O.
  5.9
Graham O.  
  5.9
Wow amazing route! Awesome exposure, the arete is one sick feature! Felt way soft for the grade but who cares? One of if not the best 5.10 's at Rumney.

Also, Jolt is completely unaffected by the rockfall and even as it is isn't nearly as chossy as people say. Dolt is no longer climbable, but the rockfall should NOT be an excuse not to do this awesome route! Aug 27, 2016
Torie Kidd
NH
 
Torie Kidd   NH
 
Graham, was there another rockfall recently? I did Dolt this spring and it was definitely able to be climbed. My only recommendation for climbing both routes would be to wear helmets if you and your belayer want to be smart. There was loose rock on both climbs when I did them. They're super fun and both worth it for the exposure, just climb gently. Aug 31, 2016
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Graham O wrote: ... Dolt is no longer climbable,...!

We climbed Dolt a few weeks ago (Aug 7th 2016) and it is fine. ?? Aug 31, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Two parties claimed they climbed Dolt today. Nothing looked amiss on a walk-by. Sep 4, 2016
Graham O.
  5.9
Graham O.  
  5.9
Hey guys, sorry for the late response. I just got the Dolt info from my friend Doug, but the truth is I'm not entirely sure. There has been numerous minor rockfalls since the big one, though. Mainly just little chunks of rock, but I did find one w/ a bolt on it. Probably just rumors about the 'unclimbable' stuff anyway. Oct 2, 2016
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I've been climbing at Rumney for about 6 years now and I somehow just got on this classic for the first time today. That rock fall a few years back kept me away. Great movement in an incredible position. I can't wait to get on it again. Get on this climb.....but just be careful. Jun 17, 2017

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