Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Page Views: 26,363 total · 177/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Junco starts with easy slab climbing. Thought provoking moves gain a stellar finger crack. Lay back and jam (crux) over the top bulge with considerable exposure and a fabulous view. My favorite 5.8 at Rumney.

Note - Watch that you don't get your rope stuck in the crack near the top. Check before your foot gets above the bolt and you can't flip it out with your toe.


Junco is on the far right side of Jimmy Cliff, but left of the blunt arete of Lonesome Dove (10a). Easily identified by the finger crack at the top of the line.


Glue in bolts
I suppose it would be hard to campus this one, huh? Oct 22, 2006
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
Great route. A long sling is useful at the third bolt. The layback moves near the top will make you think. Apr 1, 2007
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
I had a rope get stuck in the top of the finger crack after I had moved onto the final slab, it sucked, watch out. This is an excellent route. Aug 16, 2007
I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing.... Sep 20, 2007
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
A great 5.8 which feels a bit more traditional than others of the same grade in Rumney. Dec 3, 2007
My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think) May 26, 2008
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Ultra fun 5.8!! but be wary of the crack near the top. Had watched rope get caught up twice within the hour. May 27, 2008
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is my all time favorite 5.8 it cannot be beat. I do this everytime I in the area. Dec 1, 2008
Adrian Kostrubiak
Hanover, NH
Adrian Kostrubiak   Hanover, NH
I'll echo what others have said: watch your rope at the crux, as mine got stuck in that finger crack.
Otherwise, super fun and mellow route. Oct 20, 2009
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I, too, got my rope stuck recently on this route. For me, first time in 20 years for getting a rope stuck during an ascent. Rather unusual situation.

Also, the quick-clips (3 of them) on the anchor are already quite worn so please help pass along the word not to TR directly through the quick clips. Thanks. May 24, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
The verdict with the two parties I climbed this with on two ascents is that it's height dependent. Tall people have a much easier time at the upper crux. Mar 20, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I don't see this one ever getting old... Apr 6, 2013
Julia Lee
Royal Oaks, MI
Julia Lee   Royal Oaks, MI
Junco might climb a little differently now. On 4/14, we watched some guy do some "cleaning" and take/rip off (on purpose) 2 huge flakes off Junco. Apr 15, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Whereabouts were the flakes, Julia? Apr 15, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
if they were on route he musta been a strong dude! cause thats a solid chunk of rock...

i do remember some loose-ish flakes when i did a link up from junco in to lonesome dove, might have been over that way.... Apr 15, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
A little disheartened to hear this....any more info would be appreciated. I'll be up there tomorrow and will check it out and report back. Apr 15, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
From an email, it was a flake just above the climber's head in the picture "Tom on route". ..not sure if right or left. If it was actually loose, it was a public service. Lots of people hang out below.

When the bolts went in years ago, I cleaned the route, including any loose stuff. (it cut in from the side originally, not up the slab) I remember a little that I wouldn't want to put gear behind, but thought they were fine to climb on. I left those, not wanting to be too heavy handed on an established climb. They could have loosened up more with all the traffic etc. Hopefully the character didn't change too much and the clips are still OK. The rock there is so nice. Change can be OK. Apr 15, 2013
Russell Cohen
Redwood City, California
Russell Cohen   Redwood City, California
I climbed this yesterday (post flake removal). It still went very fairly at 5.8+ and the bolts were still good. Classic route! Apr 22, 2013
Climbed Junco this past Sunday. The guy who removed the flakes was climbing next to us. The rock blocks now make nice little belay seats right below the route. Bolts were solid. 8+ still seems appropriate. Super fun up top, although I don't think that crack was the most difficult section. May 7, 2013
I just heard that a big section at the bottom of The Junco (bottom two bolts) just fell off. Does anyone know if this is true? And if so, did it affect Lonesome Dove or Hammond Organ? (This may be a rumor from people who were confusing Junco with Jolt -- although they were saying the bottom of the route fell off, not the top. I still haven't heard whether this really happened or not.) UPDATE: Nothing happened at Junco. Whoever said that was obviously confusing it with Jolt, although even so they got the details wrong (top of Jolt fell off, not the bottom). The Junco is just the same as it has always been, I was just there. Jul 16, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
I don't know if the bottom of Junco fell off. I climbed it again in July, 2013, and there was no change in the route then. I will say this about the route for those who haven't climbed it——it is without question (along with Lonesome Dove next door) one of the great aesthetic routes at Rumney. The line is obvious, attractive, and pleasantly sustained at the grade. If you like to rock climb, you'll love this route. Aug 3, 2013
Lynette Cornell
Manchester, New Hampshire
Lynette Cornell   Manchester, New Hampshire
Did this one in a light rain, which made it all the more exciting! Big, beautiful holds become super tricky when slick with water and the jugs become little swimming pools for your fingers! The bottom part is a nice warmup boulder problem. Oct 17, 2014
Graham O.  
This climb is amazing. Mega-jugs everywhere you look, I think the crux is finding which ones to use! The view is by far the best part. Jul 26, 2016