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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Page Views: 24,241 total, 180/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Junco starts with easy slab climbing. Thought provoking moves gain a stellar finger crack. Lay back and jam (crux) over the top bulge with considerable exposure and a fabulous view. My favorite 5.8 at Rumney.

Note - Watch that you don't get your rope stuck in the crack near the top. Check before your foot gets above the bolt and you can't flip it out with your toe.

Location

Junco is on the far right side of Jimmy Cliff, but left of the blunt arete of Lonesome Dove (10a). Easily identified by the finger crack at the top of the line.

Protection

Glue in bolts
Peter Sullivan
  5.9-
Peter Sullivan  
  5.9-
Great route. Absolutely worthwhile if you have time for the hike up. Super sustained fun route. Sep 18, 2016
Graham O.  
 
This climb is amazing. Mega-jugs everywhere you look, I think the crux is finding which ones to use! The view is by far the best part. Jul 26, 2016
just climbed this 2 days ago, and a message of warning:

there is a flake on the left side of the route right before the crux, that I could feel moving as I was using it as a hand hold. it was probably 12 inches tall by 15 inches wide, the triangle shaped flake, probably going to rip out this season. Jun 13, 2015
Lynette Cornell
Manchester, New Hampshire
 
Lynette Cornell   Manchester, New Hampshire
 
Did this one in a light rain, which made it all the more exciting! Big, beautiful holds become super tricky when slick with water and the jugs become little swimming pools for your fingers! The bottom part is a nice warmup boulder problem. Oct 17, 2014
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
not sure who handles the upkeep at rumney but I was just on junko this weekend and one of the quick clip anchors has a loose gate that stays about half way open. when you try to close it the gate just falls open again. the other anchor is in good shape but to be safe the first one should be replaced. Sep 16, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.7+
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.7+
I don't know if the bottom of Junco fell off. I climbed it again in July, 2013, and there was no change in the route then. I will say this about the route for those who haven't climbed it——it is without question (along with Lonesome Dove next door) one of the great aesthetic routes at Rumney. The line is obvious, attractive, and pleasantly sustained at the grade. If you like to rock climb, you'll love this route. Aug 3, 2013
I just heard that a big section at the bottom of The Junco (bottom two bolts) just fell off. Does anyone know if this is true? And if so, did it affect Lonesome Dove or Hammond Organ? (This may be a rumor from people who were confusing Junco with Jolt -- although they were saying the bottom of the route fell off, not the top. I still haven't heard whether this really happened or not.) UPDATE: Nothing happened at Junco. Whoever said that was obviously confusing it with Jolt, although even so they got the details wrong (top of Jolt fell off, not the bottom). The Junco is just the same as it has always been, I was just there. Jul 16, 2013
Did this with a mix of gear and bolts and found it to be a lot of fun. I thought the gear was really tricky (although the stances for placing were all really solid so I had time to play around with different pieces) and found small/medium offset nuts to be extremely useful. Added a bit of spice to an already great sport route. Definitely wouldn't do this on just gear as a beginner, like I am. It was really nice having the bolts right there when I wasn't sure about the gear! Jul 1, 2013
Climbed Junco this past Sunday. The guy who removed the flakes was climbing next to us. The rock blocks now make nice little belay seats right below the route. Bolts were solid. 8+ still seems appropriate. Super fun up top, although I don't think that crack was the most difficult section. May 7, 2013
Russell Cohen
Redwood City, California
 
Russell Cohen   Redwood City, California
 
I climbed this yesterday (post flake removal). It still went very fairly at 5.8+ and the bolts were still good. Classic route! Apr 22, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
From an email, it was a flake just above the climber's head in the picture "Tom on route". ..not sure if right or left. If it was actually loose, it was a public service. Lots of people hang out below.

When the bolts went in years ago, I cleaned the route, including any loose stuff. (it cut in from the side originally, not up the slab) I remember a little that I wouldn't want to put gear behind, but thought they were fine to climb on. I left those, not wanting to be too heavy handed on an established climb. They could have loosened up more with all the traffic etc. Hopefully the character didn't change too much and the clips are still OK. The rock there is so nice. Change can be OK. Apr 15, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
A little disheartened to hear this....any more info would be appreciated. I'll be up there tomorrow and will check it out and report back. Apr 15, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
if they were on route he musta been a strong dude! cause thats a solid chunk of rock...

i do remember some loose-ish flakes when i did a link up from junco in to lonesome dove, might have been over that way.... Apr 15, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Whereabouts were the flakes, Julia? Apr 15, 2013
Julia Lee
Royal Oaks, MI
Julia Lee   Royal Oaks, MI
Junco might climb a little differently now. On 4/14, we watched some guy do some "cleaning" and take/rip off (on purpose) 2 huge flakes off Junco. Apr 15, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I don't see this one ever getting old... Apr 6, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
The verdict with the two parties I climbed this with on two ascents is that it's height dependent. Tall people have a much easier time at the upper crux. Mar 20, 2012
S. Neoh
5.9-
S. Neoh  
5.9-
I, too, got my rope stuck recently on this route. For me, first time in 20 years for getting a rope stuck during an ascent. Rather unusual situation.

Also, the quick-clips (3 of them) on the anchor are already quite worn so please help pass along the word not to TR directly through the quick clips. Thanks. May 24, 2010
Adrian Kostrubiak
Hanover, NH
 
Adrian Kostrubiak   Hanover, NH
 
I'll echo what others have said: watch your rope at the crux, as mine got stuck in that finger crack.
Otherwise, super fun and mellow route. Oct 20, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
This is my all time favorite 5.8 it cannot be beat. I do this everytime I in the area. Dec 1, 2008
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Ultra fun 5.8!! but be wary of the crack near the top. Had watched rope get caught up twice within the hour. May 27, 2008
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think) May 26, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.8+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.8+
A great 5.8 which feels a bit more traditional than others of the same grade in Rumney. Dec 3, 2007
KeithRD  
I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing.... Sep 20, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
I had a rope get stuck in the top of the finger crack after I had moved onto the final slab, it sucked, watch out. This is an excellent route. Aug 16, 2007
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Great route. A long sling is useful at the third bolt. The layback moves near the top will make you think. Apr 1, 2007
I suppose it would be hard to campus this one, huh? Oct 22, 2006