Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Page Views: 34,944 total · 163/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Oct 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Junco starts with easy slab climbing. Thought provoking moves gain a stellar finger crack. Lay back and jam (crux) over the top bulge with considerable exposure and a fabulous view. My favorite 5.8 at Rumney.

Note - Watch that you don't get your rope stuck in the crack near the top. Check before your foot gets above the bolt and you can't flip it out with your toe.

Location Suggest change

Junco is on the far right side of Jimmy Cliff, but left of the blunt arete of Lonesome Dove (10a). Easily identified by the finger crack at the top of the line.

Protection Suggest change

8 Glue in bolts to quick clips