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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,310 total · 14/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This route climbs the slightly dirty gully between the two sport routes on the 300 foot slab. The gully is a direct line between Clip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah and Lady and The Tramp. The gully is fun but has a sense of adventure.

The line climbs independently through the first pitch, but I would suggest using the first belay station of Lady and The Tramp so you have a safe belay for bringing up your second.

P1: climb up the low angle gully using whatever protection you can (its sparse at best). When you can traverse right to Lady and The Tramp belay. This pitch is all trad protected.

P2: Step back left into the gully and climb up until you meet up with Lady and The Tramp when it breaks left. When you hit the bolts of Lady and The Tramp you have two options: 1) finish up The second half of P2 of Lady and The Tramp (recommended with trad and bolted protection) or 2) keep going straight up the dirty gully to thrash through the brush to belay from one of the many trees. Option two is all trad protected maybe a bolt to clip when crossing Lady and The Tramp.

Location

On the slabs of Jimmy Cliff located in the gully between Clip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah and Lady and The Tramp.

Protection

Standard rack but the gear is quite terrible. A solo head space is a good idea for this route.

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nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Sounds like some of the approaches to climbs that I've done! Or at least parts of some cannon routes.

That being said, can't bag on him too much. He went out and got it done. Jul 23, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I'm about 99% certain that people climbed that often before, maybe even 30 years ago. I know I have soloed up there, but I think I came back down before I reached the very top. It is a nice adventure that despite the grade and vegetation is actually cool, so I would agree on 1 star. It is probably one of those routes best left with FA Unknown. I like your name though. May as well go with that Jul 23, 2010
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
Ya the route name is cool but the first accent should be unknown, like clippy should be unknown FA also. Jul 24, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
At least with Clippy a lot of effort went into cleaning and equipping it. I think most of the line was actually new too. So giving the FA to Chris seems legit. To be a stickler, you could put "first recorded ascent" Matt. I'm guessing Bradley White hiked up the corner at least a few times. Jul 24, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Yeah I agree the FA was pushing it but at the time I just didn't think it through and I apologize for that, I don't do anything "just to get a FA" it just wasn't a clear thought process.

As for the one star I don't try to mislead anyone with it. Thats why I am so blunt with the description. The route is fun and does not deserve a bomb rating it is worth doing. The "thrash through the brush" is maybe ten feet of the not recommended variation, the gully will always be slightly dirty and have an element of loose rock it can't be avoided.

I didn't post this route for any reason other than sharing it with other climbers,I give it one star, get out and do it and give it the bomb if you think it deserves it. Happy Climbing everyone. Jul 25, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
never any shame in having a fun day out at the crag and getting creative matt... you should also feel comfortable sharing your experiences with others :)
keep having fun and remember to tell me your tales... Jul 25, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Brian, the route goes up an interesting formation and has a nice view. It may not be clean or a grade that you are interested in, but plenty of people would find it fun. Just enjoying the view and noting the cool rock texture with the heightened focus of knowing they might die if that have a seizure and roll down the hill and off Waimea might be enough. Not all routes are going to be to your taste, but maybe chill a bit before jumping all over somebody posting a route they enjoyed. If you climb it and don't like it, that is another matter. Jul 25, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Brian,

My description may sound harsh and not very appealing but I'm not trying to sugar coat the route. On MP.com a single star stands for an OK route, which The Searchers is. It will never be a classic or have a lot of ascents but it is fun. Maybe with it being documented now it will see a few more ascents, who knows. I encourage you to climb it and give it the bomb rating if you feel it is just, personally I don't think it deserves bomb but it is not classic by any means. The route has many characteristics of the other routes on the slab: easy and fun climbing with a nice view. To me a some dirt, a couple loose rocks, and some vegetation is OK for a one star route.

Matt Jul 26, 2010
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Matt,

Will do. As I've acknowledged, it is unfair of me to comment on a route I haven't climbed. May gravity be your friend.

Brian Jul 26, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Not a bad route... great for someone looking for a really easy practice route for trad climbing... Sep 1, 2010
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
My brother David and I did the Searchers in sneakers free solo in 1980. I introduced the slab to my friends later on that year from the Hinterland's branch off up right at the Giant Man area and probably by 1982, every line today listed was trad climbed, namelessly practice routes and identified by their features. Some difficultly then accessing the base of the slab and pro, several years went by before our standard approach to here was found. It wasn't a undesirable area to get to the base of before easy access. The most popular climb is here. I like the Searchers a lot. Rock on Jun 17, 2012
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Two-stars as a free solo, a fun time and some interesting sections of rock in there. I wouldn't bother pitching it out though, unless you're a fairly new trad leader just looking to get some mileage in. Oct 19, 2016

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