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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,366 total, 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A variation/link-up that I like better than the two routes it encounters.

Clip the first couple bolts on Drilling for Dollars 5.8 and rather than breaking left on that route climb straight up the corner (trad gear) to the anchor of To Love Honor and Belay. Some interesting balance moves on the upper section.

This line can be top roped after climbing To Love Honor and Belay.

Location

Start on Drilling for Dollars. Finish on the To Love Honor and Belay anchor.

Protection

normal rack to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Just one Cam (yellow Metolius Mastercam) and a finger/thin hands-sized nut were all I needed to make it feel PG. Some might want a fist-sized Cam or bigger as well, but I didn't use it. There are points where you would definitely hit the ledge if you fell no matter how you protected it, but I found the moves to be secure when that was the case. Be very comfortable with 5.9 before leading this. It's a fun little linkup that feels like a very natural line up the wall. May 1, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.9 PG13
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.9 PG13
The 5.9 crux is probably the fact that the placements aren't that good, and you'll hit ledges if you fall. I couldn't tell you whether or not it's physically 5.9, but leading it definitely felt in the 5.9 zone. (if any of that makes any sense) May 24, 2015
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Where is the 5.9 crux of this route? I felt like the 5.9 part of to love honor and belay was in the first 20 feet above the ledge, but you would skip this part if you start on drilling... I'll have to check it out next time I'm there. May 19, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
aka "Drilling for Love" Jul 25, 2009