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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bradley White 2010
Page Views: 1,266 total, 15/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 17, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up to the big ledge on 'Lady and the Tramp'. Go right and diagonal up to Standard Route pine tree big ledge. Move right from here and down a little to an oak tree ledge. Stop at the right side of oak ledge and at a birch tree growing out of the rock at waist to chest height. Climb right of this choice, making life easier to get started birch tree. Above this birch tree is the entrance to the lay back corner crack fissure with wafer blocks of rock wedged in it. After 'they don't make a budge rock wafers' move right around on the the edge of the outside corner by a horizontal foot crack to escape from ceiling crack directly ahead in the corner. Here finish up the 'Jimmy Crack Corner' last anchor (a army surplus ring piton) . On the downer side there is lots of lichen and on the coolest side are the wafer wedged rocks in the corner to lay back on.
Unnoticed solo free climbed this west side of the Crack Corn outcrop. I had some nervous excitement from it at first from the lichen until I thought about it and understood the foot placements were being provided for and I could relax, stop trying to make them with my hands because there are reoccurring openings for my feet. The climb went faster than before and then it was over.
I passed a short v crack that goes directly up the right corner side wall, near where I started from at the birch tree. The V groove crack I free soloed this year its short and isn't much better than the other way up.

Location

Right of the pine tree on 'Standard Route' ledge. Traverse right to oak trees and a birch tree. Climb starts here. Has variations, two cracks the lower crack above the corner and the other direct finish of the corner. The direct finish crack a climber needs to move right above the crack because of a great deal of lichen. The 10ft ceiling crack is not covered in lichen. Would be an excellent crack to climb.

Protection

Medium to big stuff, hexes would be okay. Tight belay spot in oak trees and birch tree to get the pitch started. This belay keeps the rope straight.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"Sorry. The Maroon Route is my reference to the 'Standard Route' by the color on a beta photo of the slabs. I'll fix it in the route definition and the climb moves right or east near to where the maroon marker of 'Standard Route' stops on the photo (high up where the small pine tree is near to the wall on the big ledge). The climb is 50ft right and downward a little from here."

Comment by bradley white on October 31st, 2010 12:30 pm Jul 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Bradley, what is the Maroon Ledge, is it the end of P1 of Lady and The Tramp where the bolted anchors are? If not can you provide a little more detail, I am having trouble picturing where this route goes. thanks for any help. Oct 27, 2010