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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,651 total, 38/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A really fun and super moderate trad climb. A good place to practice the techniques you will need on multi-pitch slab climbs on cliffs like Whitehorse, such as rope management and switching over belays.

Pitch 1: Start at a nice perch at the base of the slab on the left. Go up smooth sticky slab then up a natural stair case in the rock (good placements at the top of bulge). Continue up slabs and cracks toward a nice crack above. Climb the crack until it is necessary to break right on the slab and up to the tree belay.

Pitch 2: A short pitch up the slab above the tree to the top. Belay from trees.

What I like to do when I'm teaching multi-pitch climbing and belay techniques is to break the route in to 3 or 4 short pitches to get max experience in changeovers and building trad anchors. There are a bunch of spots to do this.

Location

The farthest left route on the slabs at the far left of the cliff. Just to the left of the more popular Clip-a-dee-do-da. Just think left.

Protection

Regular rack

Photos

Peter Sullivan  
  5.4
Great route. If you use the anchors from clip a dee doo dah you can rap down with a 60M rope. Sep 18, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
This doesn't require a huge amount of gear to climb, but expect to be at the end of your 60m rope by the time you hit the first tree belay. Might be doable in one pitch with a 70m. Apr 15, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
depends when you break out of the crack... id say 30ft at most Jun 8, 2014
J Meagher
  5.4
J Meagher  
  5.4
How bad is the runout at the end? Like 20 feet above your last piece or more? Jun 8, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I learned so much about gear placements and multi-pitching on this route. If you are just getting into trad, or if you want a controlled route to bring a second and expose them to trad multi-pitching, this is the place for you. Turn it into 3 pitches with a gear anchor. The protection (besides the very beginning and very end) is excellent and the climbing is fun. Do this a few times and you will be much better prepared to go do Whitehorse or Cathedral. Oct 2, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
This has been cleaned recently-ish to GREAT benefit of the route, despite what the front page photo shows. I thought the climbing was fantastic at the grade. Consistently engaging for a 5.4 (kind of like a very low angle Lonesome Dove), with solid placements for both passive and active pro the whole way up, two good (but not great) belay stations, and a great view from the top.

Worthy alternative to Clippety if you can justify bringing the gear up. Jul 23, 2013
Did this in three pitches this weekend and it was a blast! Building the gear anchor half way up P1 gave me some much needed practice and split up the leading a little more evenly, since the climbing past the big tree is short on distance and pro. I probably didn't pick the greatest place to build the anchor though. I was just left of the 2nd to last bolt before the P1 anchor of clip-a-dee and felt like there may have been some better spots I could have chosen, especially further left where the angle was a bit lower and could have had a more comfortable stance to place gear. Jun 17, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I climbed clippity yesterday and notice this crack has been cleaned out. Nov 6, 2012
Ladd

  5.4
Ladd    
  5.4
I agree with Lee, this is a great route for the beginning trad leader to try out, you can lead the '1st pitch' up to the little ledge, then let them tackle the crack(2nd half of P1) to the tree belay and final run-out pitch(P2). Nov 7, 2007