Type: Sport
FA: Paul Wonsavage, 1996
Page Views: 4,811 total · 33/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


170 Opinions

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Description

Located on the far left side of Right Jimmy Cliff, Drilling for Dollars is fun in an unnerving way. The crux move, according to a local veteran, "is not hard, it just feels like you're stepping out of a six-story window." To avoid an additional crux below the chains find a hidden hold around the arete on your left.

Location

Drilling for Dollars starts conviently infront of fallen trees that make for a good lazy-belayer bench. Climb the easy slab, follow the line of bolts up blocky pillar, and make a weird move onto the face.

Protection

Standard, safe, Rumney bolting. Two bolt anchor.

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Photos

Me starting up on a hot July day.
Me starting up on a hot July day.
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crux time
crux time
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dave t at the top
dave t at the top
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Climber (Chris from NY?) finding the good holds on top of the arete to clip the anchor
Climber (Chris from NY?) finding the good holds…
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closing in on the anchor
closing in on the anchor
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Jimmy Cliff, right end.
Jimmy Cliff, right end.
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10 Comments

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BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
the crux really is crazy like stated above, yet it looks so easy while belaying... May 26, 2008
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Not one to complain, but this is a pretty bad route imo. Can't believe it gets any stars.... Sep 6, 2009
MFC Boston
Boston, MA
  5.8+
MFC Boston   Boston, MA
  5.8+
As of May 30, 2010, the last bolt (Metolius) before the quick clips was spinning. It is six bolts to the top anchors. Please take notice if you are intending to climb this fun route. Jun 2, 2010
Adam Conroy
Cambridge, MA
 
Adam Conroy   Cambridge, MA
 
I enjoyed this route only because I like being challenged by awkward body movements that you don't find in traditionally "good" and "fun" routes. I implore people to stick with the direct line and not go left to the lip and traverse over the top. I think it stays more interesting that way.

Still only rating it 1 star because it definitely doesn't have any neat real flow to it, even with how cool the line is from below. People should still get on it to get a feel for some awkward movements though, same as the routes surrounding it. Oct 4, 2010
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
 
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
 
this is an awesome climb...it just isn't a "there's the holds...pull on them" climb Nov 13, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
I agree that this climb's charm is in its awkwardness. I also agree that giving it more than a star is criminal. Mar 20, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
It's because people don't flatten out the area for the bolt,, it's just in and done BS bolting IMO May 28, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The route is 17 years old, John, with 3/8" Rawls in schist and it gets pounded on by a constant stream of climbers. That is why we switched over to glue-ins at Rumney soon after this route went in May 29, 2013
Graham O.
 
Graham O.  
 
This is really really fun! It goes up a beautiful wrinkly face that reminds me of Spraguesaurus at Blackjacks but doesn't use any of the sculpted crimps. I thought it was sick; definitely not four stars but definitely not one either. Aug 5, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.8
Franck Vee  
  5.8
A bit of an ackward climb, somewhat intimidating for the grade? just the way the huge blocks make for strange angles. Then there's the long easy slab to get there with the nearly-useless bolt mid-way.

Fun - if you're there and need a warm-up do it. Apr 23, 2017