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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 472 total · 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

This would be a really fun climb if it was clean, but as with many Rumney trad routes, it suffers from under use. It also can be a bit wet which adds to the problem. When dry its a fun jam up moderate crack. But as I said, a bit dirty.

Locate the obvious crack in the corner of the alcove. Jam up a steeper section and on to the lower angle top half. You used to have to belay from a pine tree, but now I'm sure there is an anchor you could borrow from one of the new sport routes in the area.

Location

In the corner of the alcove area of Jimmy Cliff. To the right of things as they are etc and to the left of the newly bolted moderates on the right wall. It's a pretty obvious dirty crack.

Protection

Regular rack

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
If there were separate anchors at the top for this and TINL, I bet the hammock horde would welcome a visit from the bolt fairy and this route would collect dirt no more, joining the ranks of other hated/coveted "T,S" routes. Aug 18, 2017
S. Neoh  
"Dirty" and under-climbed was the inference when we walked by this year. More power to you for leading it!
Get with the program, Mark, anything more than 5 minutes is a sick approach. I demand routes I can belay from the comfort of my car. :) Aug 18, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
"all that way", lol Aug 18, 2017
LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.5
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.5
It was fun, short and slightly awkward for the overhanging corner, but fun none-the-less. I'm giving it 3 cause it should be climbed more often if you're sick enough to carry trad gear all that way. Aug 18, 2017
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Many spiders. Fun moves, definitely needs cleaning as per everyone else's opinion! Sep 8, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Natasha and I climbed this today. We started up the corner and made a fun left heel rockover onto the big ledge where Easter Squall heads up. Surmounting another bulge, we escaped to the right and up the crack left of Things I Never Learned. We stole the bolted anchor above and both REALLY enjoyed the route. It was dry today and not dirty at all! It almost felt like someone cleaned it up... but I doubt that. I'd definitely climb it again. Oct 11, 2012
doligo  
As Lee stated, could've been an excellent climb if it was cleaner. At the moment it's dirty and wet - spices up the climb a grade maybe... Oct 24, 2009

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