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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Page Views: 23,852 total, 177/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Lonesome Dove climbs the blunt arete on the right side of the cliff. It is a fairly sustained slab route. I thought the crux was right around the second or third bolt. Above this, the climbing remains sustained, working up small edges and small holds. The last moves getting to the anchors are interesting. You can either go the right and undercling a large flake or use an easy crack system to the left. Fun route that is worth the wait.

Protection

7 bolts
Graham O.  
 
Fantastic climb! One of my favorite 5.10's at Rumney. Jul 10, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
  5.9
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.9
One of the bolts (3rd or 4th?) is placed in hollow rock. I am sure it has held falls but it was a little unnerving. Maybe a really long glue in bolt would be a good idea. Excellent climbing though. Sep 5, 2015
Loved this climb! Very interesting and perhaps maybe "different" for Rumney..... Aug 27, 2015
christopher adams  
  5.8
Definitely my favorite 5.8 at Rumney! Apr 15, 2015
Joel F
5.10a
Joel F  
5.10a
Very fun route! Gets somewhat thin at a few spots. Solid 5.10a. Definitely deserving of it's 3 star rating. Nov 6, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
Nick, you have made some valid points. To each, his/her own I suppose.
Be sure to get on Millennium Falcon and Stairway to Heaven, both have quite varied climbing, and not just jug hauling. I should also mention Romancing The Stone, Citrasolve, Black Dog Crack, and Smokestack. All pretty good and technical. And if you enjoy smearing and insecure stemming try Goldbug (P1) and Know Ethics. Aug 3, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Let me add to the applause for Lonesome Dove. It's just a great route. The line is pure (going up the arete most of the way), there are two cruxes (the start on the corner, and the thin bit about two thirds of the way up), and there are interesting moves all the way (including the direct finish, straight up). In the previous comment, S. Neoh recommended some other 5.10's at Rumney. He mentions some good climbs, but they are completely different in nature. The Dove is not an overhanging jug-haul (like so many Rumney 5.10's), and it requires balance and technique. It's a more subtle route than a route like Underdog, and it follows a much more aesthetic line. It even gets to the top of the crag! If you enjoyed the Dove, and you weren't climbing at the top of your skill level, definitely try Hammond Organ right next door. It's a climb in the same spirit, and it's not that much harder. Aug 3, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
I agree with the nice rock and great view attributes of this climb but everyone owe it to themselves to do the four v.good/great 5.10 at the Main Cliff (Millennium Falcon, Underdog, Polly Purebred, Stairway to Heaven) and the three at Bonsai (Peer Pressure, Centerpiece, Masterpiece). Jul 22, 2013
J Meagher
  5.10b
J Meagher  
  5.10b
I know I say this just about every time I go to rumney... But this is by far the greatest climb i've ever done. I love how theres kind of a rhythm to this route: you do a tough, committing move or two, then gain a good rest. I dont think theres any real crux on this, each move is tough and thought provoking. Beautiful rock, perfect moves, plenty tall, and an incredible view make for a perfect face climb! Too bad theres no five star rating on mountain project :( Jul 22, 2013
This is now one of my favorite climbs. After having sent it a couple times it flows so well and every single move on the climb is fun. I would be happy climbing this every time I'm at Rumney. I think at some point I'd love to try plugging gear in while still clipping all the bolts just for practice since I'm not doing trad at that level. Jul 1, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Can't say enough how great the view is on top of this one. Mar 31, 2013
James Otey
NH
  5.10a
James Otey   NH
  5.10a
Repeated this last week, and I think it solidified it's place as my favorite 5.10 at Rumney Oct 21, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i wont rip in to you :)
but do you like other low angle face climbs? or is it just a style you aren't in to... i can respect that for sure but it is a very good example of low angle face IMO... Aug 20, 2012
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
 
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
 
I have a feeling that I'm about to get ripped into, but I've done this a few times and it's just ok IMO. Overrated in relation to some of the other 10s at Rumney. Aug 19, 2012
Tom Gnyra    
 
Great route, didn't notice the flake, will check next time! Jul 2, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
LOL, I too did this route today again. The undercling flake in question is definitely loose and flexing badly when I tested it. The right hand finish still goes without it but it is a little harder. Someone had out an "X" on this flake, so take notice. May 6, 2012
B. Callahan
North Conway, NH
  5.10a
B. Callahan   North Conway, NH
  5.10a
Loose undercling flake near the top, watch out for it when you get there. May 6, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
I don't climb 10 well, but got up this no problem. Usually I get pumped, so another vote for this not being sustained. Spectacular moves! Easily the best Rumney climb I've done to date. Mar 20, 2012
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
 
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
 
I don't think sustained is the word I'd use to describe the route. There are a few thought provoking spots that will give pause, but definitely not "sustained" in my opinion. Sep 18, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
Nice to see people still do the original, right hand finish; much better and harder than the 5.4 left hand slabby finish which was 'added' long after the FA. FYI - the route was a mixed route when I first did it in the early 1990's. The first glue-in was not there and a somewhat tricky cam placement was needed to protect the tricky (for the grade) first moves. Aug 1, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Thanks again Lee. I was expecting micro wires and possibly opposed stoppers and few cams. We'll see if I get around to it, may be a fall project since I'm moving north. Jun 17, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
A few more points E if you want em...i did junco on gear just before doing Lonesome... as with Junco the gear is there but not nearly as much or as good as you would think in some spots... at about the halfway point a couple of small nuts protect the second hard bulge.... id say just take your time finding something good before moving on and expect PG13 climbing.... have fun and let me know how it goes... Jun 17, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
lee My friend and I have been eyeing a gear ascent of Lonesome after having done one on The Junco. Glad to hear some first hand experience about it. Jun 16, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i had heard that this line was a trad route before it got bolted... to try to get the full experience i led it on gear today, i found it to be attention getting even though i've done it a TON of times... Small and sometimes tricky gear... Nice job old schoolers, bad ass... Jun 16, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
no mike thats the standard way to finish... i see the left as an easy out... Jun 2, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i was wondering does the grade change depending on where you go at the end? i went right to the undercling cuz i didnt see the cracks lol but it felt like the crux to me.... would that make it 10b? or is it 10a going right and easier going left? Jun 2, 2009
christopher adams  
  5.8
This would get 5.8+ at the gunks. That doesn't take away from the fact that it's a really nice climb. 4 stars from me. May 31, 2009
Maura
Oakland, CA
 
Maura   Oakland, CA
 
A beautiful line to finish up a long Rumney day. The exposure is awesome... Climb it at sunset and when you clip the chains, turn around... You'll be blown away by what you see! Sep 16, 2008
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
Alan told me that he originally climbed the route with only 2 bolts and trad gear, and that he called it 5.9. I would disagree with the PG rating however, I don't think there is an elevated state of risk. Jul 16, 2008
GMBurns
  5.9- PG13
GMBurns  
  5.9- PG13
I found this to be softer than 10a, but it is still a very nice climb (and I know people will disagree with my rating, so assume it is 10a until you get on it yourself). Jul 15, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
WOW, always classic always fun... one of the best routes of its grade... ive climbed it more times than i can imagine and its still better every time... May 12, 2008