Elevation: 1,087 ft
GPS: 43.80417, -71.84037
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 177,826 total · 897/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description

Jimmy Cliff is a schist crag at Rumney that is really is composed of two separate walls that are in close proximity of each other. Locals refer to the whole crag simply as "Jimmy Cliff," but when a distinction needs to be made, people refer to either the left or right side of the crag. Both parts of Jimmy Cliff are situated high on Rattlesnake Mountain, which makes Jimmy Cliff one of the least "seepy" crags at Rumney. Both crags also tend to receive a breeze and partial or full sun. Taken together, these attributes make Jimmy cliff a good choice after a rain.

Jimmy Cliff sees it's fair share of traffic, especially as parties filter their way up from lower crags. Both sides of the crags have a number of easy and moderate climbs close together, which make them popular with large groups of beginners that are willing to walk more than 20 feet from the parking lot.

Notable climbs include the multipitch slab hike Clippidy-Do-Dah (5.5), the bouldery and short Things as They Are Now (5.12a), and Lonesome Dove (5.10a) a must-do four star slab climb that will leave aspiring rock jocks scratching their head.

Getting There

The approach is maybe 20-30 minutes long. Avoid putting on that extra layer in the parking lot, because you'll probably be sweating by the time you reach the crag.

From the small Rumney parking lot, continue hiking down the nice graded trail paralleling Buffalo Road. Take the steep wooden staircase up the hill like you are going to the left side of the Main Cliff, but above the stairs take the Short Cut Trail left, which takes you above the 5.8 Crag and then up and above Monsters. Follow wooden signs for Darth Vader and Waimea. The first obvious crag you get to is Lower Darth Vader (Bonsai and Upper Darth can be seen above before you reach it). Continue left here, walking left on the talus below the crag, and up stone steps. The next crag you get to will be the impressive Waimea. After gawking at the wildly overhung climbs and possibly wildly hung over climbers, follow a short series of stone steps and safety lines up and right from waimea, take a left up the next obvious trail, which ascends to Jimmy Cliff. When you get to a fork in the trail, decide whether you want to go to the left or right end Jimmy Cliff.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jimmy Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 565
Clip a Dee Doo Dah
Sport 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 71
Pine Tree Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 189
Lady and the Tramp
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 359
The Nuthatch
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 224
Drilling for Dollars
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 770
Junco
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 260
Things I Never Learned
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 835
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
Easter Squall
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 129
Things as They Are
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 252
Hammond Organ
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 174
Things As They Are Now
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 105
Curl Up and Fly
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clip a Dee Doo Dah
 565
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport 2 pitches
Pine Tree Crack
 71
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Lady and the Tramp
 189
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport 2 pitches
The Nuthatch
 359
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Drilling for Dollars
 224
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Junco
 770
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Things I Never Learned
 260
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lonesome Dove
 835
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Easter Squall
 96
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Things as They Are
 129
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hammond Organ
 252
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Things As They Are Now
 174
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Curl Up and Fly
 105
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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