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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Description

Jimmy Cliff is a schist crag at Rumney that is really is composed of two separate walls that are in close proximity of each other. Locals refer to the whole crag simply as "Jimmy Cliff," but when a distinction needs to be made, people refer to either the left or right side of the crag. Both parts of Jimmy Cliff are situated high on Rattlesnake Mountain, which makes Jimmy Cliff one of the least "seepy" crags at Rumney. Both crags also tend to receive a breeze and partial or full sun. Taken together, these attributes make Jimmy cliff a good choice after a rain.

Jimmy Cliff sees it's fair share of traffic, especially as parties filter their way up from lower crags. Both sides of the crags have a number of easy and moderate climbs close together, which make them popular with large groups of beginners that are willing to walk more than 20 feet from the parking lot.

Notable climbs include the multipitch slab hike Clippidy-Do-Dah (5.5), the bouldery and short Things as They Are Now (5.12a), and Lonesome Dove (5.10a) a must-do four star slab climb that will leave aspiring rock jocks scratching their head.

Getting There

The approach is maybe 20-30 minutes long. Avoid putting on that extra layer in the parking lot, because you'll probably be sweating by the time you reach the crag.

From the small Rumney parking lot, continue hiking down the nice graded trail paralleling Buffalo Road. Take the steep wooden staircase up the hill like you are going to the left side of the Main Cliff, but above the stairs take the Short Cut Trail left, which takes you above the 5.8 Crag and then up and above Monsters. Follow wooden signs for Darth Vader and Waimea. The first obvious crag you get to is Lower Darth Vader (Bonsai and Upper Darth can be seen above before you reach it). Continue left here, walking left on the talus below the crag, and up stone steps. The next crag you get to will be the impressive Waimea. After gawking at the wildly overhung climbs and possibly wildly hung over climbers, follow a short series of stone steps and safety lines up and right from waimea, take a left up the next obvious trail, which ascends to Jimmy Cliff. When you get to a fork in the trail, decide whether you want to go to the left or right end Jimmy Cliff.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jimmy Cliff

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers May 21, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
The other day I dragged the trad gear up to Jimmy Cliff and i ended up leading the gully between clip-a-dee-do-dah and Lady and Tramp. it was fun but a little run out. should I post something like this or leave it as a comment? Sep 7, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
thanks lee I had wondered about it, i will have to get on it soon, thanks man Jul 18, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Yeah Matt... i just put up a description... i hadn't realized that it was yet to be posted... It has been years since i have done it but i remembered the general idea and put what i remembered... Jul 17, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Does anyone have any information on the bolted route left of Drilling for Dollars (5.8)? It looks tough. Jul 17, 2009
Joel Pastuszak
Concord, NH
Joel Pastuszak   Concord, NH
If your friends are trying climbing for the first time, are willing to take a little hike, and you want something harder to work on...give this crag a try you will not be disappointed. I brought a first time climber out and she onsighted one of the easy/moderates while the more experience climbers played on the 5.9's, 10's, and 12's. Good times. trust me. Jun 28, 2007

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