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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Smith, 2000
Page Views: 40,568 total, 301/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Two Rumney climbers were out for a hike one day. They headed up to the higher reaches of the mountain in a search for potential new routes. After bushwacking for a while, they scrambled up a low angle dirty slab in their tennis shoes in order to check out some rock above.

They unknowingly made the first ascent of what was to become Clip a Dee Doo Dah.

Locate the now cleaner large slab on the left side of Jimmy Cliff. A line of bolts rises from the lowest point of the wall and heads more or less straight upward. The climb offers two pitches of friction moves on incredibly grippy stone.

Many 5.13 climbers regularly romp up this climb because the setting is so beautiful. To descend, turn left at the top and follow a trail to the base.

Protection

7 bolts per pitch
Patrik J
  5.3
Patrik J  
  5.3
I love doing Clip a Dee and Lady whenever I am at Rumney. They are just so much fun. There is a good belay ledge and eye bolts have way through. No anchors at the top but you can set up an anchor on a tree just above the rounded top. It is an easy walk off to the left just beyond the trees.

If not crowded you could share the eye bolt anchors on the top of the second pitch with Lady but on weekends there is generally always a line.

From the ground you can see the first bolt on the open slab. It is to the left of the shrubbery that separates Clip a Dee and Lady.

I have a preference to Lady just because the size of the belay ledge for that climb is so big you could have a party up there. Sep 28, 2017
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
 
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
 
This and the 5.4 to the right make for fun simul-climb romps with great views. Jul 5, 2017
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
  5.0
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
  5.0
This should be downgraded to 5.0 or easy 5th. I think that's appropriate for this climb, if we're using YDS as it's designed. May 10, 2017
billysimek
Boston, MA
 
billysimek   Boston, MA
 
Linked entire climb into one pitch with a 70M, no rope left to spare after second was tied in. Not totally sure if hauling all of that rope up behind you towards the top is worth skipping the 1st belay; soloing was easier. Aug 8, 2016
Graham O.  
 
So much fun that it makes me forget the other standards of a classic route and automatically give it four stars. Jul 26, 2016
Just FYI climbed this on 7-18 and there's a wasps nest in the crack just about 8 inches up and left from the pitch 1 anchor. Easily avoidable but if you reach your hand in there could be trouble! Jul 21, 2016
caesar.salad
earth
 
caesar.salad   earth
 
Did this yesterday in a single pitch with a 70 meter rope just barely reaching, maybe 2 feet were left behind the atc. Try to no hands the whole thing if you are following in a single long pitch. It's pretty fun. Aug 15, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Not trying to advocate for ridiculous and unsafe behavior Mark, just finding another way to have fun in the hills of Rumney. Aug 5, 2015
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
I haven't done the route in a long time but there's a walk off to the left, perfectly doable barefoot. You might be able to bail out left to walk off. But honestly I was taken up this as a free solo when I was like a 10a or something climber and had no problem. It's almost a hill of rock, so you might be surprised when you get there. Jun 17, 2015
Does anyone know if there are shuts to to rap from the first pitch? I am the only one in my group capable of multi-pitch, I want to set up a top rope using my own draws then rap of the shuts.

I also see someone climbed it with their dog? I know it is "5.3" but can my dog with a harness make it up behind us?

I have never been to rumney, I am a competent sport climber that can lead 5.11d, however no one else in my group can lead. Jun 16, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think people badly underestimate the consequences of slipping or tripping on this while soloing. - Yes, I have soloed it and climbed it with no hands except to clip the rope May 26, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
I propose races up this thing. I did it in 1min 45sec this weekend, and I'm 100% sure that record is smashable. May 26, 2015
J Meagher
  5.4
J Meagher  
  5.4
A fun intro to multipitch Nov 13, 2013
Kari Post
Keene, NH
 
Kari Post   Keene, NH
 
A super fun climb with awesome views! Makes a great first lead. The belays are on large, solid platforms that can accomodate a small party easily (we did it with three, and you could do four comfortably - so it's good for introducing people to multi-pitch). Mostly well protected. An alpine draw or extension is good for the last clip before the first belay. Overall an awesome and fun climb I would repeat again and again - not at all boring even given the easier grade. I want to free solo this as well. Jul 6, 2013
irujo
  5.3
irujo  
  5.3
Could be one of my most memorable climbs I've done Nov 26, 2012
Nicholas Stickel
Bay Ridge, NY
  5.3
Nicholas Stickel   Bay Ridge, NY
  5.3
Something that helped us on the route, if you want to rappel. I have a 60 meter rope so on the second rap you won't make it all the way down. Easy solution is to rap to near the end of the rope, swing over to climbers left and get a good stance near the trees, you can walk from there to the base. Please remember to knot the ends of your rope. May 15, 2012
nartreb  
Definitely extend your first few draws. I forgot to, and rope drag on the first pitch was a big pain. Sep 7, 2011
Ms. Nameche  
 
I'm new to climbing and this was my first climb ever, it was good for someone just starting!! Aug 29, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Matt Wilson wrote: If you want to up the difficulty of this climb, try campusing it.
I'd love to see that. Jun 8, 2011
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
If you want to up the difficulty of this climb, try campusing it. Jun 8, 2011
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Im going to do this barefooted free solo. Would be super fun. May 30, 2011
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
try a hands-free ascent for a little more spice! Sep 8, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Anything is possible, but I doubt the guys in the description story did the upper half of this line as their scramble. Don't forget, it was uncleaned then. The much more natural line to have done in that case would have been to run up the slab to gain the corner systems of The Searchers Jul 25, 2010
S. Neoh  
Fun. Great views along the way and at the top.
Bring your tennies along; way faster to walk down from the top than to rap, unless you happen to have double 70m ropes (and some stretch in them). Jul 25, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
If you are near Jimmy Cliff/Waimea at the end of the day, finish off with this! Simulclimb or solo to speed things up. Two 70s will get you down in one rap, but it's really just as fast to walk off. May 2, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
That's funny.... broke up with my girlfriend at the middle anchor of this one.... naturally I had to free solo the second pitch.... haha jk.

I think lady and the tramp actually has a bit of a better anchor for propositions, but that is quite a nice place ragardless! Congrats! Apr 14, 2010
Proposed to my wife at the middle anchor. Obviously, a memorable climb. If you don't have a hidden agenda like I did, simul-climbing is definitely the way to go on this one. Bring plenty of water, it's a hefty hike in hot weather. Apr 14, 2010
T Seas  
The best place in Rumney to eat lunch. Probably my favorite climb too as it is 100% relaxing and some of the best views on the mountain. Simuclimbing is best to save time and many people free solo to save even more time. Just remember a slip will result in a cheese grate for 300 feet and then pitch you off the top of wiamea. Also a great place for beginners to pactice mutipitch belays and anchors, with easy climbing and a bomber belay ledge.

Best to walk off the top, but if you must rappel, you won't reach the gound with a 50m or 60m, but you can always down climb to the far left from the end of your rappel. Always remember to tie your safety knots, even on 5.3 rap! Dec 16, 2009
joneus
Salem, CT
  5.3
joneus   Salem, CT
  5.3
The hike in was rough, but the climb really made up for it! Even when wet, the rock was super grippy and the low angle made for more of a hunched walk up rather than a strenuous climb. I think even my 3yo could handle this one in his sneakers on a dry day!

We got to watch the rain roll in from across the valley and had a very wet 3 station rappel back to the bottom which, strangely enough, made it even more fun!

Highly recommended! Aug 24, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
What do you mean by that Bradley? Aug 8, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.2
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.2
This is an epic climb! Apr 24, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
This is a great time so much fun with a great view to greet you at the top, also a great night ascent under a full moon, no headlamp needed but bring one just incase you are not comfortable, by moon light. Dec 28, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
it works better if you just use the nice walk off trail rather than rappelling... Dec 8, 2007
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.3
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.3
Please be careful if you are rappelling down as I had trouble getting down with a 60M ropes on both rappels of both pitches. Dec 8, 2007
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Fun Simul-climb. Climb with your partner, with about 30' of rope between you, leader clips while second unclips. Up and down in 30 minutes Feb 27, 2007