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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bradley White 3/14/12
Page Views: 610 total, 9/month
Shared By: bradley white on Mar 16, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

It takes distance up the cliff before the best climbing happens. Move up direct to move across left to lesser angled foot ledges and go up to reach the rock protrusion ahead left. Crux awkwardly over it and move up right to move back left at the boulder. The creepy boulder is solid enough and I used it solidly to move left. Above left of the boulder is a break in the wall. High up through this break are good handholds. Move through the break to the main cliff easily. High right step up on a narrow ledge. Crux to get to the pine tree midway up the cliff. Problematic tree climbing with a backpack on. There are really good cracks and I avoided the tree as much as possible. Great location standing above the tree. Climb up and go farthest left to the outside corner edge. Across is Lonesome Dove cliff. Climb the steeply angled outside corner (5.4) exposed and protection would be a slung horn. The higher rock on the horn is solidly stacked but eerily there. After that a short slab to the top. Route doesn't look good from the ground but is mostly clean rock climbing after 40ft.

Some days I get the gumption to free solo on sight climbs. So I did. Poor protection at the start up and through the break to the main cliff (40ft) After that the pro is decent. After the climb, climb higher and reach cairn. Move left towards the top of Lady and the Tramp whether you see the cairn or not. From here there is the trail down.

Location

Walk past Lonesome dove wall and keep on trail until you can traverse up left and go under overhang to get further up left at trees. A fallen tree is there too sit on. Start the climb underneath that big rock on the ledge (only a ominous boulder).

Protection

trad gear

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